in the same vein, most people's behavior around heating/cooling is comically misguided and inefficient. most people believe temperature is what we're trying to control, and that's driven by how weather reports, climate controls, and even our language ("it's hot!") emphasize temperature (which isn't nefarious, and makes sense in their separate, respective domains) rather than heat transfer, which is what we're really after.
this is most evident in cars, where folks point air vents away from themselves while running the a/c (or heat) full blast, rather than pointing the vents at themselves and running at a lower speed. the former is based on the idea that the whole car's interior temperature needs to be lowered (or raised) for effective heat transfer away from (or to) the body, which is incorrect and inefficient. pointing the vents at you (on bare skin ideally) promotes heat transfer immediately instead of waiting to create a big enough temperature differential to do the same work.
Some people have poor blood circulation. Pointing a small fast fan at their arms will not cool their core.
Some people get dry eyes easily. Pointing a fan at their face will make them extremely uncomfortable.
Some people are extremely sensitive to temperature changes. They don’t want to be hot but pointing a 40 degree F stream of air at their chest will give them physical pain.
No, this isn’t a one size fits all problem/solution. The correct solution is actually to cool the whole car while allowing the user control over how to cool themselves by adjusting the fans/doors. It would be much better however if car manufacturers included better PID controllers as well as moisture sensors inside and outside the cabin to create better climate control. In a car that really shouldn’t be difficult, at least with the windows closed. It’s not like a house with multiple rooms that have different exposure to heating and cooling as well as sunlight.
I don't want to have cold hands, arms, and face, while my back and my feet sweat.
Surely if an air conditioner brings an indoor area to a given temperature (and humidity), it doesn't matter what the temperature is outside. So what gives? Is the air conditioner not powerful enough? Do people not want the inside to be as cold as in other locales, since they're used to the heat? The latter would make sense, but then I don't understand why you'd need to be blowing the vents directly at you.
Also with car A/C (or indoor spaces which take in a lot of direct sunlight), hotter days tend to be the result of greater insolation. If direct sunlight is hitting your skin on a clear summer day it has a significant warming effect which you would want to offset with more ambient or active cooling.
For example, you are out walking on cold ground. Your feet get cold while your core stays warm. This is ideal for keeping heat in your core. You may survive where those with "good" circulation would lose heat too fast.
Although this may be due to lower rate of blood circulation, there is another effect independent of circulation rate.
Heat-exchanger effects along limbs depending on the layout of your veins and arteries, which varies among people. The extreme example is penguins, whose feet are on ice yet their bodies retain heat because of heat exchange as blood circulates in their legs. It maintains a temperature differential along the legs. I'm not suggesting people have specific anatomical structure like penguins, rather I'm saying the natural variation in the placement of veins and arteries in human limbs will result in a range of heat-exchange factors among different people, which is a separate factor from circulation rate, and may indicates a thermally efficient body for some situations.
heat transfer is what makes you feel cool/warm, not temperature, and air flow promotes convection (as well as conduction). it's why metal feels cooler (or warmer) than plastic at the same temperature (e.g., differing heat transfer coefficients).
[0]: note that most car trips are less than ~15 minutes, at which point, all that heating/cooling is wasted as you flush it out the door.
Talking about energy efficiency: if your car trip is <15 minutes, then ideally you shouldn't be using a car at all!
That depends on where you live. It take me about 5-7 minutes to drive to the nearest store (a "Dollar General" store). That store is about 2.5 miles away, so about a 5 mile round trip. Average walking speed is about 3.2 mph, so a +2 hour trip walking it.
The next nearest store is about 10-12 miles away (a grocery store). Most of those miles are on a road with a 55mph limit but these are curvy hilly roads so probably closer to a 40-45 mph average. That's a +6 hour walk.
Riding a bicycle is akin to death wish on those 2 lane roads with no shoulder.
Assuming you live in an urban area, this seem like absolute madness to me. Does this not represent a huge opportunity for someone to start a local grocery store business?
I have never lived further than 15 minutes walk to the local grocery store (and I considered that a pretty inconvenient location). Where I live now I have a 2 local shops ~1 minute walk away, with a small high street with a small supermarket ~10 minutes walk away. And I would say this is pretty typical across the entirety of urban/suburban UK.
> Does this not represent a huge opportunity for someone to start a local grocery store business?
Those stores do mostly exist where they are viable. The limiting factors are:
1. many of those neighborhoods don't have commercial space, and are filled with people who live there specifically because they do not want to live by commercial property, and support zoning regulations to keep grocery stores from being built besides their property.
2. because many people do have cars, neighborhood grocery stores are sometimes at a commercial disadvantage, because many of their potential customers can easily drive to stores with greater selection.
I do like living in more lively neighborhoods, and I picked one where I do have two small grocery stores within 15 minutes walking distance. The thing is, they're both ethnic grocery stores with limited selections. I try to support them when I can but to get everything that I want to buy in one shopping trip, it's much quicker and easier to drive out of my neighborhood to a much larger store.
but yes, for those majority short trips, the wind in your hair on a (electric) bike/scooter is likely just as cooling, and the trip likely no longer.
Maybe electric vehicles could be an incentive to downsize vehicles?
That's not called for.
> you're sitting uncomfortably for 10-15 minutes waiting for that temperature to be reached
It doesn't take that long, and you can compromise by hitting yourself with some of the full-power cooling until the cabin reaches a comfortable temperature.
> heat transfer is what makes you feel cool/warm, not temperature, and air flow promotes convection (as well as conduction).
Heat transfer yes, but everywhere on the body. You can't just look at the total.
Telling someone that tomato is a more vibrant red than chicken, will not compel them to prefer the taste of a tomato to the taste of chicken. (In this example the “correlation” bit doesn’t apply, but, whatever.)
This material is a passive method that I think rather soon recoups any extra energy expended during manufacturing.
Summer has similar situations. Point a small fan at yourself and you can save a lot on cooling the entire unit. A fan is blowing a gentle breeze across my hands right now (tip: aim it across the keyboard; it cools the laptop and you, and it doesn't dehydrate me). As long as the ambient temperature is below about 85, I'm fine. Think of it: 80 degrees, in the shade, with a breeze. That's pretty nice.
This acts as sort of a regulator for the system, which ultimately ends up reducing the load on the compressor as the evaporator is colder.
So while the compressor runs at one stage in the sense of it being directly driven by the engine, the resistance to spin the compressor varies based on the load of the AC system.
Edit: to be clear I am not suggesting heat/energy disappears. In this case they are cooling the air and the body using evaporation. The system appears to suck in hot air on one side and ejects cooler humid air on the other. More or less human swamp coolers.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evaporative_cooler#Physical_...
Although lowering humidity can be more easily done with just ventilation.
Mandatory slightly related anecdote: on a summer drive through Morocco back when car air conditioners where a thing exclusive to America and the one percent I never felt sweaty as long as the car was moving.
(I live in a dry climate and generally don’t sweat much anyways, YMMV)
I have an ice vest if I really want to go outside for then a few minutes.
Mirror clothing sounds like a dream.
And when they are used outside, the added humidity is negligible compared to volume of surrounding air.
Your intuition about temperature is focused on the dry-bulb temperature that a simple probe gives you.
A wet-bulb is literally a probe with a wet cloth or tissue around it.
As the humidity in the air increases the wet-bulb temperature approaches the dry bulb temperature.
This is absolutely “warming”. The latent heat of the air increases. The sensible heat remains the same.
That is to say, the person next to you is generating and dissipating a fixed rate of heating onto you (equal to their basal metabolic rate consumption), so all that the jacket can have changed is their steady-state perception of the local temperature.
Yeah so as I expected. It would work well in a lot of climates today, but it's basically just a very well directed fan. If the wet-bulb temperature is high, it's not going to help.
Is that really true? It's more efficient to cool larger rooms, because their surface area to the outside world is lower relative to the volume of the room.
Keeping entire factories or warehouses cool uses surprisingly little energy. Once they reach the desired temperature they stay there with only minor additional cooling.
If the heat was kept out of the house properly during the day, you could just keep the house cool enough by opening the windows during the night, without any A/C at all.
The big issue is humidity. Attic fans work great in low humidity places but by their nature they pull in exterior air. If it's 70F but very humid, then you will not have a great time opening windows even at night. The scenarios in which you don't need AC also work really well with AC; the efficiency (COPR) of a heat pump depends on the temperature difference that you pump heat across. If the exterior temperature is lower at night then the heat pump is going to have great efficiency anyway. Also AC has to condense water (cooler air holds less water), letting in (humid) air at night only to run AC during the day is not as efficient as looks.
I big part of people saving money on cooling when using an attic fan or opening windows is they are probably also just letting the interior reach a higher temperature.
To keep this somewhat on topic, in is more efficient for heat pumps to cool a room than to cool individual people/things inside that room typically because when you are cooling the room you are moving the heat to the outside of an insulated area.
That's exactly my point, in Southern Europe blinds are on the outside of the glass, not inside. Reflective coating and insulating double glass is good but not the same as they're not 100% efficient (with outside blinds, they absorb the heat and insulating glass is very good at keeping conduction at bay).
I can come home in the evening and barely notice the difference in temperature from when I left (25C-26C in the morning, 26C-27.5C in the evening, so about 1.5C difference); that's even with 33-36C highs outside. By 5PM it's possible to open blinds because I don't get direct sunlight anymore (my house faces South and East and has other buildings towards west), and I open the windows from 10PM till dawn at 5-6AM.
Some of the other "vidjaeos" are quite interesting when he is tearing down power tools to see how well they are constructed, and which ones are really worth the money.
But he has a lot of respect for Japanese products in general, because they are well engineered and manufactured. And a lot of the stuff for sale these days in Norte America is very cheaply made, and he really doesn't like that.
That video isn't unique in that way. I do enjoy his channel, but he's not afraid to let his racist/sexist flag fly.
You can experiment with Peltiers yourself: they're widely available on Digikey and are extremely small and effective at "air conditioning" like tasks (moving heat to the hot side, while cooling the cold side).
But due to their lack of efficiency, they can never properly compete against a large scale central air conditioner: be it a proper dehumidifier, refrigerator, or actual AC / HVAC unit.
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A 100W Peltier might be able to move 50W (meaning the hot-side is 150W of heat, while the cold side is -50W of cooling). Perfect efficiency (50W heat hot side / -50W of cooling cold side) is impossible, much like perpetual motion machines.
In contrast, a proper air conditioner might be closer to 100W of power delivering 300W of cooling (Emit 400W of heat on the hot side, and provide -300W cooling on the cold side).
Furthermore, the temperature difference from a Peltier is small, maybe 10C or 20C (and the bigger the delta, the less efficient a Peltier gets). A proper compressor / refrigerator can handle much larger temperature differences at much higher efficiency.
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So the key for Peltier is to find low temperature differences (maybe keep it to 10C to minimize the efficiency loss), at low-wattages (so that the inefficiency won't generate too much heat). Maybe 10W to provide -5W of cooling (cold side) and 15W of heating (hot side) which won't raise the temperature of the room too much, and still provide some degree of comfort to the people wearing the jacket.
But its clear to me that "air conditioning" is one of those "bigger is better" deals. You'd rather more centralize the hot-side vs cold-side (ex: make sure the hot side is outside, rather than having many hot-sides inside fighting each other, raising the temperature of the room you're working in)
With something like this you'd need near constant cooling. Although still you are only cooling a small volume, so it could be better.
Edit: as another poster mentioned, for heat pumps (like AC, but frequently not furnaces), it is also much more efficient to run them when it is cool outside (the morning), and then maintain that temperature through the day as a cold reservoir, than to try to expel the heat when it is hot outside. Which is probably a better explanation for the effect.
The rate of heat flow across an insulator is proportional to the temperature difference across the insulator, if I recall correctly.
Suppose you want the inside of you house to be at temperature Tin when occupied and the temperature outside is Tout.
The rate of heat flow across the boundary between inside and outside will be k|Tin-Tout|.
Imagine two identical houses.
In house #1 we keep it at a constant Tin. In house #2 we keep it at Tin while occupied but when empty we let it move toward Tout, turning on heating or cooling when it is going to be occupied again to get it back to Tin when the people return.
For each house, if we plot |Tin-Tout| over time, the total energy used over a given interval will be proportional to the area under that |Tin-Tout| curve.
For house #1, that curve is simply a horizontal straight line.
For house #2, that curve matches the curve of #1 while the house is occupied, but during the unoccupied times falls toward zero until it is time to get it back to Tin in anticipation of people returning home. It then rises back up to Tin.
The area under house #2's curve will be less than the area under house #1's curve.
Thus, in terms of energy required to produce the desired temperature curve, house #2 uses less than house #1.
There are inefficiencies in producing and applying that energy, though, and so getting a given amount of energy applied to heating or cooling the house from your heating or cooling system will take more energy, and that extra energy might depend on Tin or Tout, so it is possible that this might be a big enough effect to counter the savings from letting the unoccupied temperature move toward Tout.
This was my 400 level thermo 2 class, we calculated everything, inefficiency, convection, conduction.
From a pure heat capacity viewpoint, heating cooler air is very slightly easier (on the order of a few thousandths at most for realistic temperatures) [0]. Don't think it'll be noticeable for the average heating system, though.
> we calculated everything, inefficiency, convection, conduction.
I'd be curious to how those calculations affect things. If the heating element is the same temperature, I'd think heating cooler air would be faster because heat conduction is faster across a larger temperature differential and you'd get "faster" convective mixing for air with bigger temperature differences. Have to admit I'm not sure what inefficiencies might come into play, and I haven't taken classes at that level so I wouldn't be surprised if I missed something.
[0]: https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/air-specific-heat-capacit...
So at least part of the efficiency comes from not restarting the fan repeatedly.
So the blower uses less than 3% of the energy used by the burner. Some of the waste heat from the blower motor probably helps heat the home, so in reality it's probably less than that.
While startup current is significant (for a very short time), starting the fan up in the morning and again in the evening after work doesn't add that much to the total power drain, or even cycling it on/off a few times an hour to maintain temperature. Starting wattage on that motor is around 1800W, but only lasts for a few seconds.
Based on my experience with most houses’ insulation, especially bigger ones, I cannot imagine it being economical to cool it for 8+ hours when no one is there (for work and school), rather than letting it warm and then starting the AC 30min before people start coming back home.
The AC will be more efficient in the morning, for one, than during the heat of the day. And if you let the entire house get truly hot inside, it will take a lot longer than 30 minutes to bring the temperature down (it's not just air that has to get cool, it's all the solid objects as well). And when it's fairly hot outside, it may not actually be possible to get it cooled down if you wait until the heat of the day. E.g. my AC will keep my house at 70F when the temperature outside is over 110F, but if I let it drift up to 80F inside and then try to bring it down to 70F in the mid-afternoon, it won't get any lower than maybe 75F until the ambient temperature outside drops into the 90s.
Also can't use a fan on the west coast in the later parts of the summer when the air is full of wildfire smoke.
Gosh I wish I could find it. I've referenced this problem a few times, I need to find it. I might have the book, if I can find it I'll update this post.
https://wonderfulengineering.com/japanese-invent-a-jacket-wi... https://www.dailymail.co.uk/sciencetech/article-2016513/Japa...
(Sorry can't find any good links - the jackets aren't a fad and seem to be popular with builders)
Edit: The company website (Japanese) https://kuchoufuku.com