Can you share more about this? I have a APC Back UPS PRO USV 1500VA (BR1500G-GR) and it would be nice to know if this is possible with that one as well.

It was a crude mod. Take the cover off and remove the existing little security alarm battery, use tin snips to cut a hole in the side of the metal UPS cover (this was challenging, it was relatively thick metal, I'd recommend using an angle grinder in an appropriately safe environment far away from the internals of the UPS), and feed the battery cables out through the hole. I probably got some additional cables with appropriately sized terminations to effectively extend the short existing ones (since they were only designed to be used within the device). And then connect it up to a car battery.

Cover any exposed metal on the connectors with that shrink rubber tubing or electrical tape. Be very careful with exposed metal around it anywhere, especially touching the RED POSITIVE pole of the battery. Get a battery box - I got one for the big-ass AGM battery.

Test it out on a laptop that's had it's battery removed or disconnected that, just in case, you don't care too much about losing.

Get a battery charger that can revive a flat battery, and do a full refresh/renew charge on the car battery once a year or after it's had to push through a power outage that may have used more than a few percent of its capacity.

Personally, I think it's safer a less hassle to go for a LiFePo4 (LFP) Power Station style device that has UPS capabilities. LFP batteries have 3,000-ish cycle lifetimes, which could be nearly ten years with daily use.

Why not just drill a hole? Drill bits large enough to drill a hole for 120A cables exist.

> Get a battery charger that can revive a flat battery, and do a full refresh/renew charge on the car battery once a year or after it's had to push through a power outage that may have used more than a few percent of its capacity.

If you're going this route I'd recommend a marine battery. Car batteries don't handle deep cycles well, and, TBH, UPS chargers aren't designed for failed car batteries (nor marine batteries) and can possibly cause an explosion in the lead-acid battery has a few dead cells.

the real worry is these are already a fire hazzard and so something goes wrong insurance will blame the mod even if not at fault

Maybe it’s because when I was a kid, I fancied myself an experimenter, and I had a wire ripped off a lamp, and touched the two ends together…

The discharging circuitry is fine, but the _charger_ might overheat because a larger battery can draw more current while charging for longer periods. I discovered that when I tried to attach a "lead-acid compatible" LFP battery to an UPS.

These days, it's just easier to buy a dedicated rack-mountable LFP battery originally meant for solar installations, an inverter/charger controller, and a rectifier. The rectifier output will serve as a "solar panel" input for the battery. You get a double-conversion UPS with days-long holdover time for a fraction of a lead-acid UPS.

If you don't recognize the terms "sealed", "lead-acid", "battery", "capacity", or "voltage" then you shouldn't do this.

About the only advantage of it is that it's cheap (free if you find a UPS in the trash with an already dead battery), but those cheap UPSs make really crap quality power, and for some of them the only reason they don't overheat is because their stock battery is so small. It's a bit like how you can cook a whole turkey in the microwave, but you probably don't want to.

Do you have power outages often? Even if I have one, my services can come up automatically without doing anything, when the power is restored.

Speaking of... does anyone know how to speed up wifi router boot time? Stupid thing takes 5 minutes almost.

This is probably due to the access point having minimal hardware for the task, and it's startup not being particularly well optimised, so "buy a better AP/router" use likely the most practical answer.

As an alternative, you could buy a small device (perhaps a recent rPi model) with more umph (or add this task to an existing machine in your home lab setup), give it a wireless NIC if it doesn't already have one, and run hostapd to turn it into an AP. That might startup a lot faster.

Maybe try using OpenWRT if your router hardware is supported

If your OS is using systemd, you can fix that pretty easily by adding an After=network-online.target (so the ExecStart doesn't even try to check if there is no networking yet) and an ExecCondition shell script [1] to actually check if nfs / smb on the target host is alive as an override to the fs mounts.

Add a bunch of BindsTo overrides to the mounts and the services that need the data, and you have yourself a way to stop the services automatically when the filesystem goes away.

I've long been in the systemd hater camp, but honestly, not having to wrangle with once-a-minute cronjobs to check for issues is actually worth it.

[1] https://forum.manjaro.org/t/for-those-who-use-systemd-servic...

It doesn't conflict with anything you've said, just a very handy document.

So even if your local node could transmit, none of the others could, and they can't buffer either.

To mitigate power outage, you would need both power, and a cellular connection, and that connection would only be good for 2-3 hours (Cell tower backups), and those would require a Cradlepoint.

What I don't want though is a power outage putting my server offline while I'm on holidays, and not be able to access my services at all.

My ISP-provided router supports Wireguard, so I can use that to connect to my KVM and send the Wake on LAN packages.

But if you can't explain the difference between voltage and current, or know what "short circuit" means, then this isn't something to poke at.

I don't know why nobody sells these as COTS yet.

I think that says it all. It's gone beyond practicality for me, and I'm OK with that. I'm also satisfied with the current setup; I don't need to spend more.

I have a couple of Ecoflow's and Bluetti, and a Segway LFP battery. They all work fine so far.