Ten+ years ago I would be quite adamant about people getting "professional" brands, now unless you really need to "buy into the red army" anything is basically fine.
It's true of quite a few products now that I think of it. There used to be "good TVs and really shit TVs" - now even the bargain crap is pretty good.
Edit: https://corporate.homedepot.com/news/supplier/ryobi-supplier...
ryobi europe/us is definitely consumer focused, but not a store brand
Outside of the USA it's completely different. Sometimes the same brand can be nearly identical even though manufactured differently, other times they have the same name and are completely different.
Another one is Rigid - their power tools are manufactured by TTI, except for the plumbing-specific ones (sometimes) which are made by Emerson.
It's quite like hard drives are (were?) where there's only a few manufacturers but many more brands.
https://toolguyd.com/tool-brands-corporate-affiliations/#tti
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Src: retired electrician that has used (and broken) a lot of tools
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My primary tool of choice is Stanley's upscale brand, DeWalt.
Were I considering to "buy a cheaper tool," perhaps esoteric items intended for single use: instead of Ryobi, I'd settle on Harbor Freight.
Where I spent most of my wiring days [IBEW], the "top tool" was always a competition of Yellow -vs- Red.
Then again I've never bought one for myself and still kept this one from my dad.
I have several different electric drills I received as gifts with their own batteries.
Typically outdoor tools are paired with their largest AH battery available; sometimes the pair retail for less than just a single 4AH+ battery [sometimes "half off"].
Doesn't always work out, but I do this every other year (and have multiple weed whackers lol). My last 4AH 20V Dewalt battery cost me $49 this way.
None of these are incredible tools, but none of them have failed on me. The only thing that's died is one of the battery packs and I replaced it with a larger one since the included ones were pretty small. Pretty sure I killed it by using it with a more demanding tool not included in the package.
In retrospect, I'm thinking the cheapo deal was a way to get people like me - just bought a fixer upper house and looking to do some light-to-moderate DIY work - invested in their ecosystem. Well, it's worked. When I need other cordless tools, I get more Ryobi since they work with the same battery packs. Grinder, hand vacuum, etc. have been the same brand.
That said, I've needed higher quality tools as well, and when I got a better circular saw and a big hammer drill, I went corded and had the benefit of not worrying about battery brands. Probably should've gone corded for the grinder as well (it kills battery packs quickly).
For something like circular saw, I think that's much less of an issue. I picture that as something you set up in a spot and use for the duration of the project. So I guess I am surprised it even comes in a battery option.
Didn't need anything better until a few years later and bought a big beefy Milwaukee. I still use the battery powered Ryobi for 80% of stuff though, just due to convenience.
That said, I see things like battery powered table saws and have zero desire to mess with any of that.
For "pro" use on a job site, it's hard to imagine a battery powered table saw having enough power or endurance. I know my plug-in table saw seems to use at least ~1,200 watts @ 120v when cutting something tough like pressure-treated lumber, because it trips the surge protector.
But, I don't know. I see Dewalt has like a 60V powered table saw. With a big enough battery maybe it's enough to be useful for pros.
They're worse for run-time, of course, batteries get drained. Endurance is the issue, but battery powered tools can beat corded tools for power these days.
If you're going to a job site with limited electricity and don't know the exact cut of wood you need before arriving, I can see value. This option isn't for medium/large workloads, and isn't for the guy operating a wood working shop, but might be for a guy that does small jobs away from a shop.
Cable management can also be annoying sometimes when moving around.
I believe you are confusing a handheld circular saw with a miter saw. A miter saw has a base, an arm, and a blade guard; and must be placed on a flat surface/table to use it.
A circular saw is a handheld tool.
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/2736-21HD
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Woodworki...
(some of the table saws from other brands are "duel fuel" and can take a battery or a plug, can be nice).
Battery power table saws seem a bit silly until you realize that the construction people often arrive before there's any site power at all, after all, someone has to build the site power connections.
But this was a straightforward way to get a bunch of reasonable quality tools cheaply and I've honestly used all of them without any failures, so it's worked out.
And a making a wireless tool wired should be doable from a technical standpoint.
I've not charged it once since my kitchen project.
Obviously tightening knockdown fittings isn't very taxing work, but I'm still impressed every time I get it out.
That combined with better brushless motors and controllers means that these tools are way better overall.
operating these things while wired in is just a huge
pain in the ass. Meanwhile my neighbors who have battery
powered equivalents are doing just fine. My mower (which
came with the house) is battery powered and works great.
Yeah, sometimes "worse is better." I went from a gas-powered leaf blower to a 40V Ryobi leaf blower and I use it probably 25X as often because of the convenience. It's quiet enough to use late at night for cleanup in the garage without worrying about waking the neighbors (also I won't die from using a gas-powered device in an enclosed space...)The 40V leaf blower is obviously less powerful, but it's powerful enough and has more than enough power and runtime to clean up a 1/4 acre suburban yard or maybe even twice that.
But [batteries] are definitively an additional
point of failure and complexity.
Well, theoretically yes! But in practice it certainly seems the answer is no, they're not really a failure point. This is the height of unscientific anecdota, obviously, but on forums and comment sections and such I just don't see people having battery issues with these major brands.I think Li-Ion batteries are pretty mature technology at this point. There's a little bit of complexity in the battery itself because it keeps track of its charge level. Then the tools themselves seem to be pretty much braindead simple w.r.t battery technology. They are simply expecting some DC input from the battery. And the battery shuts itself off when the level is too low.
Worst comes to worst, a battery fails, you get a new one for a fairly reasonable cost. Once you buy into a tool system you will probably have at least two batteries so you're not dead in the water in the meantime.
I've never bought a battery, I either get new ones with a kit I want, or I can buy a tool and get a battery free, etc.
When we bought the house, I bought some corded yard tools (weed whacker and leaf blower) because I was assuming battery ones are weak and unreliable but the reality is that operating these things while wired in is just a huge pain in the ass. Meanwhile my neighbors who have battery powered equivalents are doing just fine. My mower (which came with the house) is battery powered and works great.
The Ryobi drill I bought when I moved in here almost 3 years ago has been working great and I literally had to charge it only once in this time (I guess I don't use it often but the fact that a power tool maintained charge for 1.5 years is impressive in itself.)
I guess I also took a bet on the battery world when I bought a hybrid. Likewise going strong going into the 3rd year.
Maybe it's time to stop thinking of batteries as weak and unreliable. But they are definitively an additional point of failure and complexity.