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Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sevensor on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @12:26PM (#15915700)
Fascinating, but I'm not going to do it. I respect the people who take this kind of care of their equipment, but I have an alternative that works quite well for me: cook your food in an adequate amount of fat. If it sticks, you don't have enough fat in the pan. When you're done, wipe the pan clean. If food is stuck hard, scrape it out, using steel wool if necessary. Cast iron is amazingly robust and develops a decent season on its own with daily use. As long as you're not super-uptight about maintaining a polymer layer on top of it, you basically can't do anything to hurt a cast iron skillet. And I'm far too busy to spend a whole day thermal-cycling a chunk of metal.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by mjm1138 on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @12:52PM (#15915919)
Yeah I agree with this. It takes a long time for a piece of cookware to get well-seasoned in this way, but it works fine. Something not noted in the article is that once the oil is polymerized, it is not going to come off with dish detergent, so all the advice you hear to never use dish soap on seasoned cast-iron is erroneous. If there's non-polymerized oil on the pan after you're done cooking, you _want_ that oil off of the surface, otherwise you end up with a layer of congealed fat, not a good seasoning. When my wife and I bought our current house, it came with a stove with a cast-iron griddle, and the previous owners had taken the "never wash it" approach and it was nasty. I stripped it down to the metal and started cooking on it (after doing a quick initial season where I coated it with oil and heated it past its smoke point). Two years later, it's developed a nice seasoning, even though I wash it with detergent after every use.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by peatmoss on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:35PM (#15916283)
> steel wool

My favorite tool for scraping stuck food particles is a one of those stainless steel ring chain mail things. They wash nicely in a dishwasher and do a good job of homogeneously scraping the surface of the pan.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by grandalf on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:48PM (#15916407)
I was going to make this point in a post, but saw that you had already done so.

Using the pan repeatedly as a griddle will result in a superbly seasoned pan that does not need much attention or cleaning.

Once in a while if the pan is used for something too gooey or saucy, or if it gets put through the dishwasher, I simply do a quick seasoning as follows, before resuming its typical use as a griddle:

1) Rinse or wash the pan, use a scouring pad or steel wool if there are any burnt bits of food stuck to the surface.

2) Wipe cooking surface of the pan with a thin layer of olive or vegetable oil. Wipe it in with a paper towel and do not leave any excess in the pan.

3) Heat the pan over a burner at medium heat, so that it gradually warms up, then becomes hot enough to produce a small bit of smoke.

4) Pour in a bit more (room temperature) oil, and once again wipe/rub this around the cooking surface of the pan.

5) Let the pan heat for another minute or two until it is once again at the smoke point, then turn off the burner.

This quick process takes about 5 minutes. It thoroughly dries the pan after washing, which prevents rust, and it gives it enough initial seasoning to bootstrap the seasoning process for subsequent uses of the pan as a griddle.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by maxxxxx on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:24PM (#15916205)
Same here. Although for scraping I use a plastic scraper instead of steel wool. Once the pan is clean I put some oil in it and heat it up for a while. That's all and works really well.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sizzzzlerz on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:56PM (#15916497)
I use a stiff bristle brush without soap. I just run hot water into the pan and then go to work, scrubbing the bottom and the sides of the pan until clean. I towel dry the pan and then set it on the stove top overnite before putting it away. Two sizes of pan and a dutch oven all receive the same treatment. I rarely use my expensive alloy pots and pans any more.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by nkrisc on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:31PM (#15916256)
Lodge makes a good plastic scraper with a different radius on each corner, but really any hard piece of plastic will work.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by philwelch on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:43PM (#15916370)
Frying more bacon is also a good technique. My cast-iron gets a smooth, almost glassy finish on it whenever I go through one of my heavy bacon-frying phases.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sizzzzlerz on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:51PM (#15916441)
Plus, more bacon!
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by gehwartzen on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:57PM (#15917088)
We use our cast iron pan almost daily and I fully agree the key is using enough fat. Generally after scraping out any solids I give it a quick rinse with soap and water, place it back on the burner at a low heat for a minute to drive off any remaining water. Every few days I might give it a light wiping with coconut oil.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by bigtex on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @03:32PM (#15917407)
We put olive oil on the pan and then wipe it with a paper towel so that it is only a very thin layer. I then use a tablespoon of butter to cook scrambled eggs. If the pan is the right temperature it is usually super easy to clean.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by Florin_Andrei on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:37PM (#15916882)
> you basically can't do anything to hurt a cast iron skillet

The only ways I could think of involve self-defense in a home invasion scenario.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sevensor on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:52PM (#15917027)
I think most of those scenarios involve a person getting hurt and a cast iron skillet walking away unharmed.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by vinceguidry on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @12:48PM (#15915883)
Cast iron is also really heavy. I have two cast iron skillets and I only use them when my non-sticks and magnalite are already dirty.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by throwaway76543 on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:02PM (#15916007)
The weight is an important feature: Cast iron has higher heat capacity and won't lose heat as fast when food is added. This is why cast-iron should be your go-to pan when searing a steak, for example.

The downside is that they take longer to heat, of course, so other pans can be more suitable for some cooking tasks.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by deadmetheny on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:07PM (#15916058)
Cast iron also has an excellent use case in which you can do any searing and such on the stove, then transfer it directly to an oven to finish. This is the secret to making S-tier steak.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by eutectic on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:32PM (#15916263)
Reverse sear is even better; by going oven-first you dry out the surface and get a better sear.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by deadmetheny on Thursday December 14, 2017 @01:18PM (#15924864)
I look forward to trying this out!
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by dragonwriter on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:40PM (#15916337)
> Cast iron also has an excellent use case in which you can do any searing and such on the stove, then transfer it directly to an oven to finish.

To be fair, lost of pans (not non-stick) can be used this way, it's not a unique feature of cast iron.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by munificent on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:18PM (#15916704)
This is true, but it's also true of a lot of other non-cast iron cookware. Lots of pans are oven-proof.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sizzzzlerz on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:58PM (#15916528)
It also heats very evenly, eliminating hot and cold spots.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by lazerpants on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:06PM (#15916599)
Cast iron is not ideal for even heating, it's a myth.

http://www.cookingissues.com/2010/02/16/heavy-metal-the-scie...

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by rhinoceraptor on Thursday December 14, 2017 @01:45PM (#15925335)
Cast iron has low thermal conductivity. You can have oil smoking hot on a cast iron pan, but you can still hold the handle.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by w8rbt on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:05PM (#15916033)
Buy old pans at yard sales if you can find them. They are much lighter and much more refined/polished compared to the new mass produced pans.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sn9 on Thursday December 14, 2017 @06:54AM (#15921581)
You should try a carbon steel skillet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-suTmUX4Vbk&t=
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by dubyah on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:45PM (#15916955)
Have you considered carbon steel skillets? They're not as worry free and have less heat retention than cast iron, but they're also much lighter and can be seasoned to a non-stick finish.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by mjm1138 on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @12:56PM (#15915946)
Consider it strength training. For my part I don't trust non-stick pans; the coating flakes off into your food over time and who knows what happens to it in your body.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by vinceguidry on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:10PM (#15916089)
I think I'm going to end up going stainless. Hits the sweet spot in terms of durability, safety, convenience, and weight.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by mark-r on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:31PM (#15916819)
Stainless 3-ply with Aluminum in the middle is perfect for even heating and indestructibility. It's not quite as non-stick as cast iron though.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by rectangletangle on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:09PM (#15916616)
Although it seems like the ideal on paper, stainless heats unevenly and sticks. IMO cast iron is ideal, albeit heavy.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by vinceguidry on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:19PM (#15916718)
Most of the stovetop cooking I do is just heating up rice or noodle dishes that I make in big batches. Those I make with big cast iron dutch ovens. The enameled ones are awesome.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by rectangletangle on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @03:54PM (#15917579)
For that stainless is a good choice. I usually use cast iron to fry, or toast things on the stove top, so sticking and even heat are important. Stainless is useful in a bunch of other areas though. Basically all my cookware is white stainless, or cast iron, not a fan of synthetic coatings.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by cr0sh on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @10:09PM (#15919651)
Have you thought about copper?

Can be more expensive than stainless and has the same issues with acidic sauces (ie, tomato based), but it heats up really well, and you can get it pretty thick for a little more heft.

Plus, it looks nice (especially if you can find some antique French pieces).

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by 50CNT on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:38PM (#15916887)
Stainless is nice, it only loses on thermal mass and non-stickness. But if what you want is food, not perfection, it doesn't narrow your options much, and is much easier to maintain.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by sevensor on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @08:20PM (#15919241)
My skillets almost never leave the stovetop. Other than soups and sauces, everything I do on the stovetop, I do in cast iron anyway, and I use one every morning for my eggs. I try to rotate which one I fry eggs in because I find that eggs improve the condition of the pan.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by blacksmith_tb on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:44PM (#15916384)
Which makes it ideal for induction ranges, I will say. It's also one of the reasons it's still possible to buy a secondhand cast-iron pot or pan that's 100+ years old.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by fredophile on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:19PM (#15916175)
There are a number of cast iron pans out there that are lighter but you'll need to pay more for them and look for them specifically. Try searching for Field or Stargazer pans.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by blacksmith_tb on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:47PM (#15916404)
Also some very interesting-looking Iwachu pans from Japan[1], though I haven't tried one yet...

1: http://www.core77.com/posts/39670/Iwachu-Skillets-Effortless...

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by dragonwriter on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:37PM (#15916310)
“Really heavy” is generally a positive trait in cookware.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by evandena on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:02PM (#15916008)
Once your pan is well seasoned, do you worry about acidic food (tomato, citrus) damaging the seasoning?
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by jandrese on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:15PM (#15916137)
I used to, but after trying it I no longer worry about it. Even boiling tomato sauce has no noticeable impact on the seasoning as far as I can tell.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by ashark on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:40PM (#15916333)
We made a tomato sauce in a cast iron pan. Once. It was god-awful. It was like eating iron filings. You couldn't taste anything else.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by knieveltech on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @01:49PM (#15916416)
Sounds like you used a rusty pan.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by ashark on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:24PM (#15916749)
Very new, "pre-seasoned" plus oven-seasoned once.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by jandrese on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:37PM (#15916877)
That was probably the issue. Pre-seasoning is mostly bullshit. The best seasoning is just using the thing daily for a few weeks/months IMHO. Very new pans have not had the time to build up a good solid coating.
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by knieveltech on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @04:04PM (#15917647)
New? Y'all don't have antique stores or flea markets where you live?
Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by rectangletangle on Wednesday December 13, 2017 @02:05PM (#15916586)
Not exactly sure what you did wrong, but you did something wrong.

You probably should have polished it with a metal scouring pad first.

Re:Chemistry of Cast-Iron Seasoning (2010) by wahern on Thursday December 14, 2017 @04:51PM (#15927442)
I normally do like many people here, which is just wipe on a thin coat of oil and burn it off on the stove-top (covered in aluminum foil to reduce oily residue on kitchen surfaces) when I think the seasoning needs an extra touchup beyond what it gets from cooking. Years ago I tried the oven trick, but as you say it's just not worth the bother. Plus, it can really dirty your oven and your whole kitchen.

But last year I had the idea to season the pan on my Weber coal grill.[1] And it worked extremely well. On the grill you can season both sides and the handle just like in the oven, but without worrying about the sticky residue it creates everywhere else. You can get the pan much hotter than in the oven, and more evenly than on the stove. My IR thermometer measured the my pan at something over 700 degrees fahrenheit on the grill, which was about as high as I wanted to go.

My pan was purchased unseasoned and the seasoning I managed before trying the grill was spotty, uneven, and prone to flaking. After about 15 to 20 minutes (or maybe 30? I don't remember precisely) on the grill the seasoning was perfect on every surface--as shiny as fresh oil, but completely dry. I applied one really good coat of oil, enough as I could manage without it pooling and creating runs, and wiping off any excess that pooled as the pan heated. The primary reason you normally season with thin coats of oil is, I think, to ensure an even, consistent surface. But on the grill you can wipe off any excess as it pools, so you can apply a much thicker coat in one shot rather than bake-on multiple thin coats.

For no good reason I stupidly tried to season the same pan on the grill a second time several weeks later. The second time I was lazier and less cautious and managed to burn off some of the existing seasoning, as well as letting too much oil pool and run in some spots, which became prone to flaking. But in neither case was the seasoning ruined all the way through to the iron. That's the danger of doing it on the grill, I guess. At 700 degrees you don't want to keep the pan in there too long as it'll ruin the seasoning--pools and runs will quickly harden, leaving an uneven surface that even wooden utensils can end up lifting, and hot spots can get much hotter than you'd want. I think at somewhere around 900 degrees seasoning will just completely burn-off in short order.

The only discussion about seasoning pans over an open fire I found online involved someone recounting (himself or someone else) seasoning pans over a camp fire. IIRC the advice I read there was to be careful as at too high a temperature not only will you destroy the seasoning, but you can damage the cast iron itself, either cracking it or changing its thermal properties. But with an IR thermometer, a spray bottle of water, and some coals you can get an amazing seasoning in one shot in under 30 minutes, and then grill lunch.

[1] It came to me sometime after I got the idea to fry chicken on the grill. I like making pan-fried chicken in my cast iron pan, but my wife hates the mess. (I hate the mess too, I just like the fried chicken more.) Frying on the grill works pretty well, but controlling temperature is difficult, especially because it's not easy picking up a large cast iron pan from a hot grill to reposition hot spots or to be able to spray some water over the coals. (Or maybe I'm just a wimp.) I'm still experimenting with technique, but I've yet to have an out-and-out fail.

And, yes, I keep a large ABC-rated fire extinguisher nearby, as well as some small foam extinguishers for stove-top fires so I have options and don't hesitate.