Yes you do. You set up the studio and wire it all up, with all of the devices, and with the right $100 wires and $30 wires and $2 wires. (Along with $50k in equipment.) But then you need to move out for some reason, so you tear it all down and it all gets boxed up and loaded into a truck and then you have nowhere to set that studio back up so then you end up with a box of cables in your living room that then gets shoved into your closet. Now you have a box of cables, some more expensive than others and you are just gonna randomly grab one until you find one with the right ends on but now also the right innards as well which means you'll have to test it.
I am not looking forwards to looking at a tangle of usb-c cables and extracting the one that actually meets my needs. Still better than trying to pull a DB9 through, but still.
For example, video-only cables are only possible if they have active electronics - so that means you are buying a very expensive cable which somehow doesn't follow the specs. I know Monoprice does make one, but it starts at $115 and it is explicitly marketed and labelled as video-only.
Low-voltage cables are the same thing. All passive cables can do 100W using 20V, and the 240W ones using 48V are explicitly marketed as such. There are some optical cables which do not transfer power at all, but again you're looking at specialized >$100 stuff. You don't just accidentally grab one of these out of your Box Of Cables.
As far as I am aware, no cable manufacturer cheaped out on the wiring because there is zero reason to. You can't simplify USB 2 cables like that, and anyone selling USB 3 cables wants all pins for it to actually be usable as a data cable.
The biggest problem with USB-C is that the USB Implementers Forum created a very clear design to indicate exactly what each device and cable is capable of - but then manufacturers decided it was ugly and just completely ignored it. If everyone just followed the damn spec there wouldn't be nearly as much confusion.