Since it is possible to do for two phases, why wouldn't it also work for 3? More power!
Stove outlets can handle 12kW in the US... So there's plenty of power to go around. Built in outlets can go even higher, with 240V/60A being somewhat common for larger appliances.
> Stove outlets can handle 12kW
wasn't aware, in that case I was wrong, good for them
[0] https://www.miele.co.th/domestic/1512.htm?&&&info=200004302-...
https://www.subzero-wolf.com/assistance/answers/wolf/common/...
Sounds like an exciting day when one of your bulbs burns out!
And if all else fails you your circuit breaker should flip.
If bulbs normally failed short, then you'd have circuit breaker's flipping a lot more often.
If it failed open then a bulb burning out would trip the circuit breaker.
In electrical circuit terminology, "open" means "not connected" while "closed" means "connected/shorted".
That's different from direct translation of Chinese (and I think several European languages) where "open the light" means to turn it on (by closing the circuit, naturally).
I think it's most common English engineering usage (by far) to say that a burned out lamp fails open [circuit].
the neutral grounds both sides of the split phase and mainly serves to carry current when the load on each phase is unbalanced. when the neutral is cut off from ground all current has to be carried by the phase. if the loads are balanced, everything appears fine. when it is not you end up with a spooky electrical system. as now you have a series connection with a built in voltage divider. on one side the voltage will be too high on the other too low.
A related tip is to build a "dim bulb tester" to help you diagnose short circuits on mains-powered equipment. I have a traditional incandescent lightbulb in a porcelain socket wired in series with an outlet (and a switch). A non-shorted load will tend to work pretty well as the cold/cool incandescent bulb is fairly low resistance in series with the load. A shorted load will light up the light bulb brightly but not trip any breakers, allowing the opportunity to do some troubleshooting on the bench.
I've also used this concept several times to find short circuits in house wiring. Put the dim bulb tester in series with the circuit that's shorted and then, using a non-contact voltage tester, find where the measurement on the NCVT changes. That's likely where your short is.
In building such a device, you're on your own liability-wise; please don't be dumb.
Three phase for residental connection is pretty much a standard everywhere with 230/400V system. Only small flats and really small houses get single phase. This is because the 230/400V output of the larger distribution transformer is inherently threephase and this gets distributed to essentially all the points of connection and the only reason why there are single phase residental connection is that they are slightly cheaper (both in terms of fixed monthly payment for capacity and in terms of initial installation costs). While in US the input to the typical residental pole/pedestal mounted local distribution transformer is already single phase, so you cannot really get three phases without running additional wires to the substation (and probably also having you own dedicated distribution transformer) and thus in a residantal area you are simply stuck with split-phase.