Much lower pressure, actually - domestic water is supplied closer to 50-60psi.
This fix is only inferior to Tesla because it exposed a design flaw and removed their chance to massively overcharge for a tiny repair.
Cries in England where domestic water can be as low as 10 psi and sometimes won't even reach the top of your house and you have to go downstairs to get water...
Pretty cheap and easy to install.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Water-Booster-Pump/s?k=Water+Booste...
It would just be better if the utility company supplied a decent pressure. But they don't want to do that because their pipes have thousands of leaks in, and the higher the pressure the more water leaks out.
This is the problem of living in a place where most of the infrastructure is 200 years old.
FWIW, the first bit means the pump is defective/badly designed and you need to get a better one (don't have any actionable advice on where, unfortunately), and the second should be fixable by putting the accumulator tank in the basement/hole in the ground, although YMMV on practicality.
I got tired of a small pressure tank, and thus no water without power. So I bought a 50 gallon one.
Now I can take a shower in the morning, even without power.
Not sure of the pump to use here, and I think we're discussing the same thing almost, but pressurizing the holding tank would be pump before vs pump after.
It may provide a nicer experience? Not sure.
And without power, the catchment tank would still be pressurized by the incoming water supply at 10psi, a nice fallback.
Now we only need to obtain the contract. Profit!
Look for the "booster set" to make a selection.
Consider adding in a vibration isolation to the pump connection. This article describes some of the different types. Probably for your application the "hose and braid" would be what I'd be looking for. This is a pretty standard part from a hardware store.
https://www.pumpsandsystems.com/isolation-noise-vibration-hv...
Imagine if other cars were like that: "Sorry, we're not able to service engines so instead of replacing your timing belt for $400 you have to buy a new engine for $6000"
In this case, Tesla under-equips service centers so local battery repairs aren't possible. Shipping it back to the factory is necessary. So I can kind of understand if they charge the customer a $1200 freight fee + the cost of the repair itself, but that would still be > $10,000 less than the cost of an entire new battery pack.
Although I think it would be much better if Tesla actually enabled their service centers to do repairs like this. They can get away with it right now since they're more of a luxury/prestige brand and have minimal competition in that EV segment, but if you buy a Cadillac you don't deal with this type of thing:
As other manufacturers are catching up with offerings that compete on the lucury/prestige side of EV's as well as entry level cars. These are manufacturers with more experience in engineering their cars for decentralized service, with customers that expect that: Honda knows that their Civic customers won't buy a comparable EV if a little road debris will either cost them $10k out of pocket or raise their insurance by getting a $10k at-fault claim that raises their insurance costs. Tesla may have a hard time facing such competition without changing their model.
Currently the extra price of an EV makes attracts customers where price is not as much of an issue. As manufacturers significantly larger than Tesla enter the marker with their economies of scale and lower prices, the target customer for an EV will change, as will their expectations.
My house runs at 60psi, +/-3psi, and I think it is pretty bog-standard for US plumbing. It's about 11m from the basement to the attic, and still needs decent pressure upstairs, so, yes, 2-5 psi is silly low pressure to worry about - it's only going to be a slow leak even while running, the only problem is if it runs out, for which I expect Tesla has a sensor.
This repair is not some janky hack, it is more of an upgrade
Never knew this.
In India, 99.99% of all homes have gravity flow and static pressure, so except for very tall buildings, no one gets pressure more than 5 - 10 psi.
Pressure reducing valves are used anywhere the pressure going into a home is above 80 PSI, and those are a lot more common than homes needing their own booster pumps.
Most homes have borewells, storage tanks and intermitten municipal supply. So there is no direct line from local municipal water tower to homes.
My house has one of these, as the pressure would go up to 90 psi sometimes (iirc). Weirdly, my water pressure isn't consistent and can still burst to a "visibly from the tap" higher pressure for a few minutes at a time. I have no idea what causes it.
(Otherwise, water could slowly drain back into the well)
So think of it as a closed system, and it is a common setup, yet I have not seen this behaviour.
Plenty of pressure here (USA) without a pump.
Edit: Plus, I've got to say that it is really cool to get perspectives from all over the world here - India, Norway, and a few other places, just in a few comments - just how differently things are done, and what we each take for granted in our environment.
Unless Tesla can state exactly how this fix is inferior to it's original design.
Putting a brass nipple in a plastic pipe is a tried and tested process. The stated pressure is 2 psi, or max 5 psi during testing. 5 psi is about 3.5 meters of water column. So the pressure is equivalent to what you get in your home.
The piping is essentially house plumbing level stuff.