However, there are anti-jigglers too that lock the machine when any new human input device is plugged in.
You could have a list of known USB device IDs you trust, and if a newly plugged in USB device wasn't on that list you could lock or power down.
They didn't go so far as to cause alarms on unknown device ids, but devices would just not be mounted if they were not whitelisted.
This was during the windows XP era when it seemed there were an endless number of security problems related to usb devices, no matter how good the group policy and registry settings pushed via active directory membership were.
Here's a current story:
Someone ordered the wrong desk phones at your large company?
1.) Assemble your crew. Go to various departments and recruit non-technical people.
2.) Task them with disassembling 1000 desk phones.
3.) Hot glue USB port on phone shut.
4.) Reassemble 1000 desk phones.
Attempting to authenticate USB devices is a very hard problem — a sufficiently advanced attacker can spoof manufacturer and device IDs, even if you lock things down to prevent anything other than a keyboard or mouse it's possible to send keystrokes to open the wrong website, there's always a chance of an exploitable flaw in your USB stack, etc. — but anyone diligent can be paid to walk around every week checking to make sure that a seal is solid and the tamper-evident stickers have the same serial number as listed on the inventory. There is a real value in having things where the failure modes are obvious and intuitive.
While these second order effects are immeasurable, they are quite tangible in my personal experience.
The safeguard doesn't need to be perfect, it just has to be good enough.
(Due to various disability acts they can't really do it either, as the employer must provide their staff with hardware they require, e.g. ergonomic keyboards and mice)
(For your parenthetical I should clarify - it wasn't the case that it was impossible to whitelist other devices, it just had to be done on a case-by-case basis. I.e. you would call IT and say "Jen from accounting at machine foo123 needs her new ergonomic mouse to be recognized" and they would remote in, tell Jen to unplug and replug the device and whitelist that exact USB device id on that exact machine.)
that...or the USB port is permanently blocked (saw that when I was at a finserv years back: all USB ports (except the one the mouse plugged into) were epoxied
"With the CRU WiebeTech HotPlug you can transport a computer without shutting it down.
"The HotPlug allows hot seizure and removal of computers from the field to anywhere else. The HotPlug's patented technology keeps power flowing to the computer while transferring the computer's power input from one A/C source (such as a wall outlet or power strip) to another (a portable UPS) and back again.
"We created this product for our Government/Forensic customers, but it has IT uses as well. Need to move a server without powering it down? The HotPlug can do it.
"It's great for digital forensic investigators and techs who can't risk losing access to data on a running computer. With many computers now employing full-disk encryption, shutting them down poses the risk of having to crack a password after moving the computer to a lab for analysis, which can greatly increase the time and expense of an investigation. When combined with a WiebeTech Mouse Jiggler, you also won't have to worry about the computer entering password-protected screensaver or sleep modes."
If I were to do this, I would try and find a secondhand server that already has similar protection built in, so if anyone asks I could say "I did not even know it came with this feature".
Having a good security architecture is not obstruction of justice. Doubly so if the data is still accessible to you after the failsafe is tripped. All you've done is prevent their ability to access the data before informing you of the existence of the warrant, using access mechanisms that - to you - are indistinguishable from an unauthorized access attempts.
> "I did not even know it came with this feature".
A documented threat model and security policy that justifies physical tamper protection and pulls inspiration from FIPS is a much smarter legal strategy than perjury. Consult a lawyer.
I could pretty easily write a script that forces my machine to reboot and do all manner of other things if some sort of network change is detected.
There was also one that would use the motion detector to try to detect if the device was falling, and park the hard drive heads before impact.
Then there are splitter clamps.
The most common ones are used (low voltage) on cars and motorcycles, they look like these:
https://www.mesconnettori.it/index.cfm/it/ricerca/?flbr=ruba...
But there are professional ones, suitable to 110 or 240 V example:
Dealing with AC power isn't really that dangerous if you're careful.
So long as you’re not earthed https://imgur.com/gallery/B2c5FfD
For one project we had large banks of ultracapacitor in a cabinet. Fully charged it was around 1200 VDC. This thing was in the prototyping stage, and we were testing a control system on a Saturday morning.
So we charge it using a large AC/DC converter, fully charged, everything worked beautifully. We start a discharge cycle converting the DC back to AC. Uh oh, it starts pulling way too much current. Flames start to shoot out of the AC/DC converter. Fuck. BANG. Fuse blown.
We assess the damage... the AC/DC unit is totally shot. And someone (me) is going to have to analyze what caused the failure. Otherwise everything with the capacitor cabinet seems okay, but the thing is still charged to 1090 VDC and the fuse is blown. Check with the mechanical engineer that designed the cabinet. Turns out the fuse can't be changed (can't be accessed) while the cabinet is charged and the cabinet can't be discharged because the fuse is blown. Well that isn't good.
The only thing we could do was discharge it into a load bank (think large toaster) by connecting something directly to the copper busbar live at 1090 VDC. So one of the commissioning guys volunteered. He put on some high voltage gloves, stood on a plastic mat, and connected some jumper cables someone had in their car to the bus bar. He stepped back and someone else threw the switch on the load bank and it discharged without incident.
There were some design revisions after that.
Lesson learned: electrical wiring is like a gun. Always treat it like it's on, and if you have to do something would be unsafe if the wiring is energized, make damn sure it's de-energized before proceeding. When you're working in that mindset already anyway, flipping the breaker for something as simple as swapping a switch/outlet hardly has any benefit.
1) Treat every wire as if it was hot. Even if you know it's not. 2) A good electrical connection must first have a good physical connection.
Not sure why that second rule sticks with me :) but there has been more than one occasion when I'm fairly sure the first rule has saved me from a bad shock. And you're right - treating the wires as if hot means you can actually work with hot wires for a lot of simple things.
I still turn off the breaker though :)
The wire nut is only there to stop the wires loosening over time and provide some basic insulation. It is not there to actually attach the wires. When you twist your wires together, they should be attached well enough on their own that you'd be comfortable throwing a piece of electrical tape over them to stop them shorting to the box and leaving it as-is (but don't do that). If the only thing keeping them together is the wire nut and you being very gentle when you manipulate them back into the box, they're not actually connected.
The poor physical connection creates a poor electrical connection. A poor electrical connection has resistance which creates heat. Heat creates fires. Even better after a few years when enough traffic has driven past your house and enough people have moved around inside of it and the wires have wiggled to just barely in contact so occasionally when someone walks down the hallway the lights will all flicker as the wires create some pretty electrical arc light shows, adding carbon buildup to the wires and further increasing the resistance and heat concentrated in the one tiny point of the copper where they're still sometimes connected.
No reason at all for this rant. Definitely not a real example at all. Definitely didn't waste an afternoon with a toner, a drill with a pilot bit, and a borescope to hunt down the six octagon boxes someone had sealed into the basement ceiling hiding away some of the shoddiest wiring I'd ever seen. Nope.
I'm not a nut that does everything with the power on--I kill any branch I'm working on and double and triple check with a non-contact voltage detector before I stick my fingers into anything (which saved my bacon the one time when the hot from a different branch of the same phase ended up connected to a neutral wire for a plug with no connected ground leaving it showing 0V on a multimeter in any configuration and still being live with the breaker off; that house was a mess). However our current dwelling has no main cut-off for the power. If we wanted to turn off power to the panel we'd need to get the power company out to pull the meter from the socket.
In a mostly full panel the bus bars are pretty much completely covered by the breakers anyway. You'd have to work pretty hard to come in contact with them. And the wires you're working with (besides the ground) are insulated anyway so no issue if they brush up against something.
The only thing that's _slightly_ butthole puckering is chasing the uninsulated ground wire through the panel down to the neutral bus.
And yeah, done without gloves because weighing "safety when I make a mistake" versus "greater dexterity so I'm much less likely to make a mistake" I prefer the latter. The protection is rubber soled shoes and keeping one hand tied behind my back so the electricity has no path through me.
He did this without notifying the power company, so those supply lines were hot with 240V residential service. The weather shifted and a light mist started falling before he was done. Like another poster above, I was thinking I need to be ready to call 911, but wanting to be far enough away not to be hit by splattering metal or any surprise voltage gradients in the soil.
But, careful work habits and some tools that happened to be insulated anyway, meant that I was never bridging two different potentials. The job went flawlessly and I only noticed when I plugged the outlet tester into it at the end, expecting to go turn the breaker on and come back and look at the lights... but the lights were already lit up.
Ground is ... all the metal bits in the bathroom and there's earth leakage happening somewhere.
The safe work procedure is then: get the shower to the desired pressure and temperature before you get in / while you're still wearing your shoes then try not to touch the taps while you're in there.
But don't tell the guests cos hearing them yell "FUUUUCK!" is amusing.
Bonus points if they pass out from the shock and knock their head on the way down.
Caring bunch us Aussies.
I think the thing I saw is also meant to deal equally well with a commodity x86 PC built from parts, or an Intel NUC size thing, or a corporate desktop machine with proprietary internal wiring like a slimline Dell, Lenovo, HP, etc.
HotPlug must only work in countries with terribly designed plug outlets like the US and Canada. Our NEMA 5-15 plugs are live when the plug's hot (electrons be here) and neutral (return to sender) blades are still visible. I don't think this device could work in the UK I'm not from there but I think their plugs can't be live with exposed plug blades.
https://www.cru-inc.com/products/wiebetech/hotplug_field_kit...
Unplugging just enough to expose the prongs is risky because the point where contact is lost will vary from receptacle to receptacle.
Chances are things are plugged into a multi-plug hub anyway. European homes are especially lacking in sockets in my experience.
Essentially it's a medium sized double conversion ups, with a really high quality sine wave inverter, and some electronics that can match phase with a live 120vac 60Hz circuit. And a tool kit which consists of the insulated electrical hand tools needed to do a midspan removal of the cable jacket and splice into the wires in an ordinary PC power cable. The person using it is of course supposed to be trained in advance, and competent at the process of attaching the UPS to the live circuit.