https://www.amazon.com/Furman-AC-215A-Conditioner-Auto-Reset...
This may indicate that your neutral line is undersized and/or damaged.
Generally, you want to measure the voltage difference between live and neutral depending on the load. However, depending on the tools you have access to, taking this reading properly can be a bit tricky both because simple high-impendance multimeters can easily be tricked by ghost voltages caused by bad connections and inductions from other cables, and also because understanding what to measure requires knowing how is the electrical system wired.
If you know you are in a TT system with 240V between Live/Neutral, I can tell my procedure for inspecting neutrals. In a two-pole TN-C-S system with 120V between L1/Neutral and 240V between L1/L2, I suppose it would be similar, expect that we'd have to do more tests (both L1 and L2 to neutral, and I imagine also L1 to L2).
EDIT: a first simple check to do is to check, using any multimeter, if there is voltage drop in your office when the hairdryer is in use.
I don't totally know how that noise would traveling over the ground shield of the HDMI cable into the analog section of the Denon receiver though. Maybe some of that GPU return current is going through the HDMI cable, through the Denon receiver to mains earth, and then through your building wiring back to the ATX PSU? Grounding is freaking weird.
Grounding really is incredibly weird (and, again, I say this as someone who is shamefully ignorant of electrical principles). It's no surprise that some 'audiophiles' become so superstitious about electricity. Its behavior in a stereo can be mysterious. Just looking at an amp funny seems like enough to cause a ground loop.
- Speakers connect via speaker wire to monoprice 7x200 amp
- Monoprice amp connects via RCA to denon x3800h
- X3800h receives HDMI from desktop computer and sends HDMI to a monitor.
- Same computer connects via Displayport to the same monitor
I used to hear an infuriating buzz when my 2080TI started to work hard. It changed depending on the screen output, GPU strain, and mouse activity but was constant. It acted like a combination ground loop cum coil whine.
The first fix I discovered was to ground my monoprice amp to the 2080 TI PCB by wrapping one end of the exposed-copper (12 awg, I think) grounding wire through and around one of the holes in the board and attaching the other end to the Monoprice amp's grounding pin.
This fixed the issue completely.
Then I realized I could fix the issue more elegantly and elminate the need for grounding: I removed the grounding wire and replaced my normal HDMI and Displayport cables with fiber optic HDMI and Displayport cables. The buzz has never recurred.
I've never delved further into the problem, but my conclusion is the same as yours: there's a design fault somewhere on the board, which is causing electricity to flow in ways it shouldn't. I'm using an MSI z690 ddr4 edge wifi board. Same brand, same generation, as the board where this guy is having his SSD power issue.
I still hear a weird, loud buzz through the stereo (including a separate amp and separate pair of speakers) when my partner runs her hair dryer upstairs, even though my stereo runs on its own separate circuit, so regardless of the design issues in the board, there's definitely also an issue in my electrical system.