The Autogrill ones were not terrible but not particularly good. Mostly just stale sandwiches which decent quality ingredients.
We found an amazing Masseria in the Gargano that was great. Outside Venice there was a beer/pizza pub that was exceptional as well. Random is often better than relying on tourist guides.
That said, yelp and google are often unreliable for restaurants. I found the app TheFork was quite useful.
The food was absolutely amazing and it felt great to be away from the tourists for a bit.
Yelp in Italy doesn't really exist, no one in Italy uses that. TheFork is okay for the deals that they have, like coupon etc. but to be fair I would not recommend that for tourists since you'll be missing out lots of nice restaurants since on TheFork there are just a few of them.
Places we've eaten at in Puglia (from Tricase to Lecce to Vieste) are a mix of local recommendations, places we've researched, or random luck. A place we stayed outside Treviso/near Venice, the little hotel recommended this pizza place where entering there must have been a hen party or some such (many women poured into slip dresses of a wide age range) and we were skeptical. Turned out to be really quite good - different types of crust, local and other draft beers, etc.
I do agree on the big city thing though. I can get Italian food in London that’s as good as or better than most of what we had. But that’s a complement to cities like London and Melbourne rather than a sledge on Italy. We had a series of “good” meals, then a couple of “greats” across Bologna and Tuscany. Absolutely could not complain - apart from the place in Bologna that charged us €10 for pasta e burro for our toddler; screw them.
"La culture, c'est comme la confiture. Moins on on a, plus on l'étale" — Knowledge is like jam, the least you have, the more you spread it.