I check the Google reviews, try and screen out any Americans - so fussy and no idea, normally - then just stop by, look and see what the vibe is like. 95% of the time this works perfectly for us and we eat well. I also make a point of asking locals in shops and galleries that we like what places they'd recommend.

I do agree on the big city thing though. I can get Italian food in London that’s as good as or better than most of what we had. But that’s a complement to cities like London and Melbourne rather than a sledge on Italy. We had a series of “good” meals, then a couple of “greats” across Bologna and Tuscany. Absolutely could not complain - apart from the place in Bologna that charged us €10 for pasta e burro for our toddler; screw them.