Yes, I'd also like to note, the market is flooded with crap. Multiple devices I've owned with these "cheap" displays have been on crappy, battery-intensive devices. The devices with simpler segment (or dot matrix) displays last longer and work better.
I get some of the points where extreme legibility trumps (nearly) all other concerns, however I'd propose the issue could have been solved more simply with more specialized segment displays.
bold of you to assume i have enough memory to drive the thing.
edit addendum; If it was using a 7-segment display, it is either really cheap or really simple "a graphical GUI on a screen" IS NOT A REASONABLE NEXT STEP.
I think we have radically different expectations of a simple embedded system.
It really isn't. I've implemented simple GUIs on SSD1306 displays, and it's very easy to work with. The hardware is specifically set up to optimize for rows of 8px tall text (or multiples of that with a bit more effort). Once you have row/column addresses set up, each byte you write to the display writes one 8px column of pixels to a row and moves the column pointer over by a pixel. Printing text is a matter of streaming a sequence of bytes to the display.
If you just want a really cheap ARM microcontroller, Puya has some parts like the PY32F002A in the <$0.10 range. Single core, lower Fmax, and fewer peripherals than the RP2040, but the price is hard to argue with.
Sure, they bring some complexity. Instead of just driving some pins you now need a display library and at least some bitmap font. But they provide a lot more fidelity, are vastly more readable, and fail in more obvious ways without needing periodic test patterns (the flashing 8's or snakes mentioned in the paper so you can detect failed segments)
For larger displays the choice becomes more interesting between OLED, LED matrices or 16 segment displays, but for small devices like those shown in the paper cheap OLEDs make the choice easy