> You just have to get it resharpened and possibly get some new teeth brazed on.

This looks quite destructive to the teeth that contact the stop:

https://youtu.be/Ibp2Gy2CFrY?si=Pa98Vey2oE0Atx1e&t=7

I can't imagine it will ever be cost-effective the labor of repairing a blade after that instead of just getting a new one.

When I ran a woodshop we would get our blades resharpened for about $30 and new teeth were a few dollars each. Its absolutely worth it when your blades are $100+

I wouldn't re-use a blade that SawStop triggered on. I assume the blade itself will go out of true based on the forces. It's a lot more damage than a few teeth.

Professional sharpeners have tools for testing blade conditions. We had a guy who would drop by the shop once every couple months and pickup all our used blades to service.

This is really standard fare with professional carpentry. I don't understand why so many people here are in shock at the concept of blade servicing.

> This is really standard fare with professional carpentry. I don't understand why so many people here are in shock at the concept of blade servicing.

For me, I'm just surprised that the economics of it can work. I'd imagine such a specialist is not going to charge less than a $100/hr so I wouldn't have expected the cost of repair to make sense. But interesting that it does!

I think they make their money in the scale. They have a pickup guy who drives all over Los Angeles to pick up blades from all their customers. We had him come in every 2 months. He would return a batch of sharpened blades and take whatever blades were dull.

Definitely an old school style of business.

Have you had a SawStop? It really doesn’t seem like it, because if you did you wouldn’t be so stuck on this line of argument.

Just getting saw blade out of the stop is a major effort with a vice and engineers hammer. The way it brakes is an extremely violent process.

It definitely warps the blades in weird ways, and fixing them to actually be true is unlikely to be economic.

Yes I have the industrial grade Sawstop. I ran a professional carpentry business for years using it as our main saw. I probably bought it around 2012 or 2013, I can't remember exactly.

I don't know what to tell you. I ran a professional shop, I'm not a hobbyist. I couldn't tell you how many feet of lumber I've shoved through my table saw. I've never personally had the Sawstop pop due to a safety issue, but every single time it happened in the shop I was able to remove the blade and get it serviced for around $30-40 depending on how many teeth were lost. Most of my saw blades are greater then $100 new so this cost is worth it.

The workshop I used had a dozen plus false pops due to people cutting wet wood or similar issues. None of the blades were worth saving due to significant warping or damage.

I guess we’re just living in different worlds.

What brand of blades did you use? Most of mine were Forrest or Tenryu. The Forrest blades are very heavy.

This was a decade ago, and a workshop environment with a wide variety of blades.

So random folks, and random blades.

Ha. I've owned a SS for five years and used several of their high end cabinet saws in other shops. No one is going to bother brazing on new teeth on a saw blade. They'll just buy a new blade...

I've done it plenty of times. New teeth cost a few bucks when you get your blade resharpened.

When you have blades high cost blades ($100+) its absolutely worth it to get them resharpened and teeth replaced.

I have wrecked blades on my SawStop and while they likely could have this done, the easiest path is buy a new blade.

It really depends on the cost of the blade.

Are you saying you've possibly saved multiple fingers or serious injuries then?

In these cases no. It was stupidity of a different kind on my part, but never where I was in danger. For example I added a flexible ruler to one of my jigs without thinking about the fact that it was metal. The ruler (which I happened to be touching at the other end) touched the blade, so in essence the saw thought I was touching the blade.

Prior to owning the SawStop though I have had some close calls that would have been much less painful and dangerous had I been using a SawStop.