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Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by Fricken on Friday January 06, 2023 @09:32PM (#34284489)
Some of these guys can do pullups all day, but they only train within a strict range of motion and they aren't necessarily any good at doing anything outside of that range.

When I started climbing I could do 3 pullups, and now I can do 18 in a set. I don't train pull-ups, just climbing.

Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by tuatoru on Friday January 06, 2023 @09:54PM (#34284636)
For good climbing, I'd have thought you need to be able to do muscle-ups (pullups that end with you balanced over the bar, pushing down to support yourself).
Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by Fricken on Friday January 06, 2023 @10:22PM (#34284804)
For some styles of climbing powerful muscle-up type dynamic movements are an effective way of solving a problem.

Climbing is adaptive, and usually there is more than one way to solve a problem, and one is encouraged to use their body any way they can to get through a section. Many elite climbers have distinctive trademark styles and are instantly tecognizeable just by how they move.

Jan Hoyer is an outlier who posesses both a freakish abundance of power and span. He trained the muscle up to outrageous extremes.

Jan is the only climber to ever throw a 1-9 on the campus board. He performs many outrageous stupid climber tricks throughout this 8 minute video;

https://youtu.be/Ho_rzpQGrq8

Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by pcthrowaway on Friday January 06, 2023 @10:00PM (#34284670)
That's probably a level beyond where the majority of people who frequent the climbing gym get to. Even pro climbers might not be able to do any muscle ups.

Here's Alex Honnold talking about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDUeh8nyLT0&t=490s

He demonstrates he can only do 5 pullups (though it's possible he was being modest).

Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by tuatoru on Friday January 06, 2023 @10:55PM (#34285011)
Thanks - my preconceptions about climbing are corrected! (A little.)
Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by SamoyedFurFluff on Friday January 06, 2023 @11:35PM (#34285234)
Climbing is less about upper body muscle and more about body positioning and squats, actually. Your legs have more muscles than your arms, and being super buff limits necessary flexibility to perform maneuvers like swinging your foot up on a perch and pulling up with your leg, often more effective than the same maneuver with an arm.
Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by steve_gh on Saturday January 07, 2023 @02:41AM (#34286073)
Climbing is also about core strength. I started bouldering much more regularly about a year ago, and was amazed by how much my trail running improved without any special effort.
Re:Less gym time, same results: Why ‘lowering’ weights is al... by bradlys on Saturday January 07, 2023 @08:57AM (#34287977)
At a beginner level, maybe. As you get past beginner levels, you need strength… especially upper body strength.

Rock climbing is especially upper body strength intensive. It’s why the guys have ripped upper bodies and tiny legs.