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Re:Essential Climbing Knots by jvanderbot on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @12:07PM (#32414316)
I would never trust my safety to a bowline. It comes loose with a minimum of working. Only under constant load would I use it, and only then when double hitched, and probably with a finisher clove hitch.

Even my dog gets away from a bowline with a minimum of moving around the front yard.

Re:Essential Climbing Knots by bmj on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @12:41PM (#32414857)
I rarely see people tying in with a single bowline, for the reason you give. I've been using a double bowline with a stopper knot (http://www.vdiffclimbing.com/double-bowline/) for many years now (well, at least outside of the climbing gym). I've never had an issue with the knot loosening when not under load. The usual complaint I hear from people about using it to tie-in is that it is harder for your partner to visually verify. The figure-8 follow-through is very easy to visually check.

ETA: The last person I saw tie-in with a single bowline was Christian Griffith (of Verve fame) using it to tie-back in after cleaning the anchors of a warm-up in the Ruckman Cave at Rifle Mountain Park. He also didn't secure the rope whe he untied to thread the anchors, choosing instead to just step on it. Not exactly a great example of anchor safety...

Re:Essential Climbing Knots by jvanderbot on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @12:50PM (#32415013)
Yep, that double bowline with stopper is what I was referring to. Trouble is, it is now almost as challenging to tie as the fig-8 loop / trace.
Re:Essential Climbing Knots by hprotagonist on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @05:06PM (#32418463)
a usual reason to use it outdoors is that it’s easier to untie than a figure 8 when the rope is dirty or frozen or you were whipping on it for hours.
Re:Essential Climbing Knots by hprotagonist on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @02:57PM (#32416835)
yes, sorry: i absolutely meant double bowline there. Sloppy.