Use the web-based version in Edge. It’s not quite the desktop version, but it has improved a lot. At this point I’d rather use the web-versions of all office tools on a Mac rather than deal with installing them.
Excel on Mac is a P.O.S. because Microsoft wants it to be one, they don't want users switching to Macs.
Microsoft’s MacBU has always been a separate team who I don’t think have ever held back on trying to make good products and have put surprising amounts of effort into it. Even the PC Office team doesn’t care if the Windows team does well, after all.
They do however have nightmarish build processes and technical debt that when I mention here get replies from people claiming I must have made it up.
It's absolutely their job to make Excel less of a P.O.S. on Mac.