Re:We can do better than “same, but electric”
by namibj on Tuesday March 29, 2022 @09:31AM
(#30842294)
If you want to run it just on solar, use one that can be legally fed with DC (almost all work fine, anyways), and hook a battery with suitable voltage between it and the solar panels.
Re:We can do better than “same, but electric”
by Gravityloss on Tuesday March 29, 2022 @10:16AM
(#30842813)
Random model from Ikea: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/samfaelld-induction-cooktop-bla...
Cooktop with induction cooking zones:
Right front: 8” – 2300W, booster 3200W.
Left front: 8” – 2300W, booster 3200W.
Left rear: 7” – 1800W, booster 2600W.
Right rear: 7" - 1800W, booster 2600W.
Center: 10” – 2500W, booster 3800W.
Voltage: 240/208V.
Connection rating: 15400W.
Current: 40A.
Re:We can do better than “same, but electric”
by EricE on Tuesday March 29, 2022 @04:13PM
(#30847786)
If you are running the burners flat out. Which you only do when getting water to boil or preheating cookware. Once up to temp, induction requires far less energy to cook with since it is way more efficient - directly heating the pan.
So yeah, if you are in the habit of routinely maintaining four pots of water at a furiously rolling boil you probably will have problems. The rest of us are likely to be pretty safe.
Re:We can do better than “same, but electric”
by Gravityloss on Tuesday March 29, 2022 @05:22PM
(#30848547)
Yeah, I wasn't intending that, it was just shown to get some feel for the numbers. It was the biggest Ikea cooking top as well.
Also maybe you want to use the oven and AC and charge the car at the same time etc. As far as I understand, it's a plus and minus calculation. It's not any kind of compatibility issue...
Naturally big electric power sinks need bigger voltages, otherwise the current and thus the cabling would get very thick.