You might also want to look at the mostly printed CNC, which uses standard conduit/pipe for the frame.

https://docs.v1engineering.com/mpcnc/intro/

Be warned these plans require you to drill a couple holes in the conduit. I managed with just a handheld drill though the holes weren't quite aligned. Definitely use a file or hacksaw to create a flat spot on the conduit where you want the hole so the drill bit doesn't wander as easily.

Or a center punch (helps on flat metal too).

One favorite trick of mine is to print out 1:1 drill pattern drawings and center-punch through the paper onto my metal workpiece for all the drill locations. Fast and accurate.

Basically, 2D printers (you know, those $150 things) are exceptionally high precision and accuracy tools for making 2D drawings. I've been using printers for years and it never occurred to me you could use it to print a (for example) 10cm square.

You can if you are really nifty do limited scale PCB manufacturing this way.

https://www.instructables.com/Creating-Printed-Circuit-Board...

Fusion360 seems to try to prevent you from exporting PDFs with the free hobbyist version. One tip that I discovered was to create a CUPS printer on a Linux VM that saves PDF files.

(I found it printed slightly off sized if I sent a 2D drawing straight to the printer.)

Yeah, you have to correctly configure the output to get dimensional accuracy. but it shouldn't involve finding some magic scaling factor for X and Y that makes things accurate.

I've used Inkscape to make basic shapes, and pay for Fusion 360. TBH I've never actually thought to take one of my 3D Fusion models and use it to make a 2D template for drilling. That makes sense...

Inkjet yes, laser no.

Since the mostly printed CNC already requires a 3d printer, you might as well print a jig to help drill those holes. https://play.fallows.ca/wp/tools/3d-printer/mpcnc-drilling-j...

My favored approach to offset drilling / drilling on curved surfaces is to use an endmill. Doesn't wander, goes straight in. Of course, you need an endmill for that approach, but id you're building a CNC those should be in ready supply.

interestingly you can also mill a flat or indexes to mate tubes together. I’ve also contemplated making one-piece saddles to mate extrusions, filling the gaps with zero-expansion epoxy.

Tubes and extrusions you buy cheap rarely have dimensioning and tolerance you’d want to accept out of the box. To get what you need, best just to use geometry of hole centers, and adjustable fine parts.

I set a limit of 1/128 inch on any garage woodworking projects. This is 8 mil (thousandths of an inch) or 0.2 mm. Wood and plastics (and even aluminum) fluctuate from moisture and temperature enough to make this a lower limit of reasonable value, though I’m getting closer to 5 mil in router precision. It’s not a fine carpentry shop and I’m not making anything that really needs better than eyeball precision (hand marking) which would be about 1/32 inch.

Applying geometric dimensioning and tolerance to design has been a liberating experience. I’m not a mechanical engineer or even otherwise anywhere close to the industry so I really had no idea how to assess or compare designs.

I use a cordless hand drill to drill and tap aluminum all the time (as does this project). adjust the speed until you are pulling out long ribbons instead of dust. you can use a little oil, but its not necessary. the only issue is trying to stay perpendicular to the work, but usually a little deflection doesn't matter. also pay attention to 'wowing', where instead of drilling your perfect round hole the drill bit starts to bounce around a triangle or pentagon and you end up making too big a hole. its often best to start with a pilot drill and then a final pass to clean it up. also its often easier to use a centering drill to setup the holes. it provides a pocket for the drill to rest in so that it doesn't wander, and you can use the centering drill to fine-tune the hole pattern before you make it permanent.

To easily stay perpendicular to the work, use a tap guide block. You can 3D print one or drill one out of stock on a reasonably square drill press.

I picked up a used drill press for $45 or $50 (I don’t remember now), and a tap and die set from Amazon for about $20. 10/10 would recommend if you have the space.

Believe it or not, aluminum can be treated the same as wood when it comes to tools. Any drill that can drill wood can drill aluminum.

Aluminium is quite soft, so it might work if you have access to a screwdriver and a step drill

I’m not an expert here but I’ve heard 8020 is expensive enough such that purchasing a drill press would probably be cheaper, if feasible, correct?

There is also handheld drill press rigs that may be useful.