News for hackers. Stuff that matters.
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @12:49AM (#27600907)
I'm also skeptical. There are no rock climbers on this list.

Climbing is still a relatively niche sport (though depending on where you are, it might be one of the most popular), but I'd wager participants collectively spend as much on climbing equipment as many more popular sports. The gear is quite expensive, and for safety reasons, much of it needs to be replaced with relative regularity. You'd be hard-pressed to find a sport where people who don't compete at any level spend $500-2000 per year on equipment (though skiing might give it a run for its money, especially when other expenses of skiing are taken into consideration)

As a result, 'professional' rock climbers (many of whom counterintuitively don't participate in competitive climbing), court a wide variety of sponsorships.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by cjonas on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @02:06AM (#27601296)
In skiing, only a few individuals at the very top make any real money.

Most "professional skiers" just get free gear and travel budgets to film a segment or go to competitions.

To be a professional, you either have to be a massive dirtbag, or have a trust fund; and the former has gotten much harder these days.

Same deal for professional climbers, AFIAK.

I also disagree in that climbing seems quite affordable compared to other outdoor recreation. Shoes and ropes are the biggest wearable expenses (the latter of which you can split with your partner).

You can even get a trad rack for ~500$ that will last you a decade (minus replacing a stuck piece occasionally).

Most importantly, climbing outside is free.

When I walk out of my house to go skiing, I probably have close to 7k in gear on me, all of which has to be replaced every 2-5 seasons :(

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @02:52AM (#27601554)
Sponsored climbers are quite common. Climbers who would have no chance of winning a competition and are climbing nowhere near the frontier of the sport can become sponsored; it's often about building connections and a name for themselves (perhaps for being really good at one specific move, or doing some first ascents in a remote area).

I think very few climbers have made $1 million in a year from sponsorships. But if I had to guess, I'd say Alex Honnold and Lynn Hill have (and perhaps a handful of a few others). Sure, it's probably not $1mm every year, but I'd be surprised if they're not making that some years. Right now, the climbing "industry" is also going through a massive boom which has led to hundreds of new gear companies, so this might be the most lucrative time ever to be a sponsored rock climber.

And yes, it's not the most expensive sport either, I already acknowledged skiing is likely more expensive. As someone who climbs outside 30-50 times a year I personally would need to spend ~$400/year just to keep up with replacing helmets, harnesses, ropes, slings, shoes, and misc. lost/broken/damaged gear. It's more because I'm adding to my trad rack constantly, but I know lots of climbers who spend roughly this amount every year, none of whom climb competitively or professionally.

And you can get a trad rack for $500 (in the U.S.), but that would just be single cams from .3-3 with carabiners, a nut tool, and a handful of slings and nuts. And you'd still have to buy it used. Add in quickdraws, double cams, more nuts, and other gear (guidebooks, bouldering pads, totems, offsets, hexes, tricams, UFOs, aiders, big bros, portledges, pulleys, ascenders, haul bags), and as a non-professional climber, it can be very easy to spend >$1000/year.

Compare this with a soccer player who plays a couple of pickup games every week. Even if soccer is a much more popular sport for people to play/watch, it's easy to imagine how the same amount of money could be spent on climbing gear collectively.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by jasonkester on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:12AM (#27601681)
It still sounds like you’re stretching a bit to make the sport sound expensive. Sure, a trad rack might set you back a couple thousand dollars, but nobody buys the whole thing at once.

You’ll build your rack slowly over a dozen years, maybe tricking in a new cam or two and the odd nut to replace stuff you’ve lost. But nobody ever retires cams, and no dirtbag climber has ever decided to spontaneously replace his entire trad rack.

Similarly, as a sport climber, I get a new rope every six or eight years if I’m trashing it, and a new rack of draws every fifteen. It’s not a regular occurrence.

I moved to Fontainebleau specifically for bouldering and am on the rocks 3 days a week. I go through 2 pairs of shoes a year and add a pad to the collection every few years. If I spend $500 on the sport in a year, that’s a big year.

Compare that to something like surfing, where I’ll spend more than that on baggage fees for one trip, and it just rounds to zero on the scale of expensive sports.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:19AM (#27601735)
It certainly can be done much cheaper, and bouldering alone is about as cheap as it gets. I live near Squamish and it's known for multi pitch climbing. People who just climb sport spend ~$400/year replacing gear. It's probably not the same everywhere, but lots of long climbs and rappels will wear at your rope. Even faster if you're taking falls on it. I know people who have only ever bought one rope, but they don't climb very much.

Personally I've been climbing outdoors for almost 3 years now and have had to buy a rope every year (2 ropes one year actually). I realize I'm not 'typical' of a climber, but I've probably spent $9000 USD total on equipment in the time frame. Mostly new equipment, but also mostly on sale 20-30% off retail price. But even the 'dirtbags' I know may save money by not paying rent, hitchhiking, living in vans, or camping, and still can spend $400-600 a year on climbing equipment

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by jessaustin on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @01:06PM (#27606930)
I agree with you on the the accessibility of climbing, but "moving to Fontainebleau" doesn't sound cheap! b^)
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by jasonkester on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @01:54PM (#27607670)
Had to be done though.

To be honest it’s pretty cheap living here. The little village were in isn’t on the train line to Paris, and it’s not a fashionable spot for parisien weekend houses. It’s just a farm village, with real estate priced accordingly. There’s no way you’d be able to buy so much as a tear down within 50 miles of a west coast city for the price of this house. And it wasn’t anywhere near the bottom end of the market.

You should probably come out for a season to see for yourself.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by cjonas on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:37AM (#27601838)
For sure, but trad/big wall climbers are the 1-5%. A lot of people who climb probably don't even own a rope. Of those that do, the vast majority just sport climb.

I climb ~50 days a year and I've got 5 year old draws that I'd still whip on.

I don't think soccer and climbing are even in the same ballpark when it comes to market size. I hope they never are because outdoor areas literally couldn't survive that level of popularity.

PS: Join the AAC if your aren't already. Gives you access to a bunch of discounts, including BD. Cams are in stock and 35% off rn.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:47AM (#27601905)
Where I live, at least 25% of lead climbers do at least some trad climbing (there's just so much of it in Squamish and you'd be missing out on most of the multi pitch if you're just doing sport).

But for argument's sake, let's say 5%. That's still 5% of climbers who are likely to spend more in a year on equipment than 99% of people who play soccer ever will. That's why I'm saying it's a sizable industry when you look at what people are spending.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by cjonas on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @10:41AM (#27605095)
Ya but Squamish is world class and has tons of beginner friendly single pitch, so I'd expect that.

I think your overestimating the profit margins on climbing gear (very thin) and underestimating the popularity of soccer (think every school has 20 kids buying expensive cleats that are mass produced).

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by trollied on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @07:39AM (#27603291)
This year will be a big pivot moment for the sport. Next month, 100s of millions of people are going to watch Olympic climbing. The speed climbing will definitely be front page news all around the world, just because people have never seen anything like it. Everyone's going to want to get down their local climbing gym and give climbing a go. But, you're correct - very few will end up outdoors. I hope that those that do are safe!
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by screye on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @10:20AM (#27604848)
It's a little sad how being 'American' is such a huge plus when it comes to sponsorships.

Janja Garnbret has been the unquestioned top female climber since she started being a pro climber, but an American or British climber will always get more media coverage.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by spoonjim on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:09AM (#27601656)
What is a "dirtbag" in this context?
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by dagw on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:18AM (#27601728)
A "dirtbag" in climbing/skiing circles is someone who lives in a beat up van, has very little money and spends all their time and (meager) money driving for spot to spot, devoting their entire life to climbing/skiing.
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by Fricken on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @04:36AM (#27602219)
There are dirtbag surfers as well. They only get so dirty because they're always in the ocean.
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by spoonjim on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @05:39PM (#27610803)
Ah thanks. No “scumbag” implications? Because not traveling in outdoor circles I think of “dirtbag” as a guy who sleeps with teenage girls and sells stolen property out of a van.
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by jasonkester on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @02:42AM (#27601510)
You’re mistaken.

My wife was a sponsored rock climber when we met, and we know quite a few top level climbers (including a couple that non climbers might actually have heard of). Sponsorship keeps many of them going, but not at the level you’re thinking of.

Think “can afford to do a euro trip staying at Airbnb’s”. Which is cool, but you probably make more than any of them with your developer gig.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:08AM (#27601651)
I'm certainly not arguing that many climbers are making $1 million/year from sponsorships, but I do think some are, or occasionally do anyway.

One of the interesting things about climbing though, is that this is often all the compensation climbers get. There aren't climbing leagues/teams that pay climbers a salary comparable to other sports (I suspect some competition climbers get paid a salary or stipend, but I doubt it's as much as a professional football/basketball player). But there is so much money to be made from selling climbing equipment, the manufacturers are heavily incentivized to get their names out. And the superstar climbers like Honnold will get sponsorships from other companies as well (Red Bull, Clif Bar, etc.)

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by jasonkester on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @03:15AM (#27601702)
I guess what I’m trying to say is that we actually know the guys (and girls) who would be making those millions if anybody was. And they’re not.

One day hopefully.

Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by yxwvut on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @06:39AM (#27602936)
I think the intended list of 'who would be making those millions' is limited to maybe 5 people (eg: Alex Honnold or Adam Ondra), not the hundreds who call themselves 'pro climbers' (ranging from the top echelon of rock and competition climbers to dirtbags getting a discount on shoes).
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by prawn on Wednesday June 23, 2021 @06:51AM (#27602995)
Might've changed since then, but Honnold is at a school appearance in Free Solo and a kid cheekily asks him if he's rich. He describes his financial situation as something like "a moderately successful orthodontist" which I wouldn't have thought would mean $1m in annual endorsements.
Re:The Rise of the $10M Disc Golf Celebrity by pcthrowaway on Thursday June 24, 2021 @01:40AM (#27614318)
Honnold is one of the most humble dudes in the world (even about climbing, which he's very good at). I saw that clip too. I think he's made over $1mm/year since Free Solo came out, possibly just in endorsements/sponsorship. But he probably gives a lot of it away also, via his Foundation or other charities.