Now, whether or not you, personally, do, is entirely up to you and what you want your career trajectory to go. (Both are equally valid because internally, AWS will always needs ops people that understand computers.) However, a cottage industry of AWS Certified Solutions Architects has already sprung up, and some have been getting lucrative consulting gigs based on knowing the mismash of Amazon names and how best to mash them up.

Serverless (specifically AWS Lambda) plays a part in the cloud, but most of your objections are true of the cloud and/or AWS more broadly, and have little to do with, specifically, serverless. (Despite whatever the webdev convention was trying to sell you.) There's a whole world of EC2 instances which are mostly VPSes, to know about that definitively aren't serverless (though there are some really neat cattle-level features that serverless learns from)

If the computer is a bicycle for the mind, then the cloud is a car for the programmer's mind. You can definitely build your own stack with your own team that manages to avoids the cloud, but at some point it becomes more than one person can handle. As you scale, there's a points where the cloud does, and does not make sense, but the cloud gets you access to far more resources as a tiny team than would otherwise be available to you.