The maps on the right in this article are a pretty good approximation to what I get on my last and current phones. It only touches briefly on street names and other labels but the dramatic reduction is clearly visible.
taneq was saying that Google Maps now shows very few street names, but your link doesn't talk about street names, and is about city names instead.
(Disclosure: I work for Google, on unrelated stuff.)
https://www.justinobeirne.com/essay/what-happened-to-google-...
it was on HN a few months ago
https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=11604387