As someone whose first job out of uni almost 20 years ago was in a mainframe environment, I have no desire whatsoever to go back to it and would strongly recommend against working in COBOL if you can make a living using tech that was developed in the last 40 years.
I don't think there is an advantage in general - the mean salary is probably going to be lower compared to enterprise Java, just the tails on the COBOL jobs can be lucrative. I don't think it is particularly satisfying intellectually, but that might be my bias (I don't enjoy digging through reams of code to try to figure out how to glue things together - it is a challenge).
I did my time on big iron and JCL - Do. Not. Want. Of course, these days a human is probably not walking your stack of tapes to the tape readers so you can find out you have something misconfigured .... Sometimes I'd get 2, maybe three runs a a day if the operator was really spritely!