If you really believe that OpenSSH is too scary to expose to the Internet for fear of memory corruption flaws, don't stop at a half-measure like "port authentication". After all: once you "authenticate" the port, the attacker can simply hijack your TCP connection to trigger the flaw.
Instead, write a plugboard proxy, and have it apply a static-keyed AES-CTR transform to the data.
I think this is silly, but if you're trying to protect yourself from OpenSSH bugs, at least do something that actually protects you from OpenSSH bugs.
I also dispute that a plugboard proxy is "more complicated" than "cryptographic port knocking".
I'm not aware of any available plugboard proxy solution, so it would have the added complication of hacking it together. That's what I meant. And there are diminishing returns there: a non-criptographic port knocking scheme with a few packets could be good enough as a camouflage in many cases. But I still find it to be a time saver in the more general case (not APT). I think having cleaner logs is worth using this simple trick then.