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Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by lazide on Sunday March 23, 2025 @05:20PM (#43455994)
It’s one of those distinctions which only actually matters in a small and somewhat rare, but very important, edge case. Usually more determined by rope diameter and conditions than anything else.
Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by forgetfreeman on Sunday March 23, 2025 @06:47PM (#43456518)
In contexts where a fuckup is likely to result in death or permanent disability it might be prudent to play the consequences instead of the odds. Marginally related: I was always shocked by the diversity of crispy bullshit other climbers were willing to rap off of. I kept new webbing and rap rings in my daypack at all times just in case.
Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by lazide on Monday March 24, 2025 @05:39AM (#43458966)
Sure, it should be noted that applying that rule fully consistently would mean never doing recreational climbing at all eh? After all, it is fundamentally risky.

Maybe still SAR, of course.

I always carried a belay knife and some extra webbing, and used it more than once. A couple times I didn’t need the knife.

Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by forgetfreeman on Monday March 24, 2025 @11:56AM (#43462491)
I mean I hear what you're saying but at the same time avoidable bullshit like scrambling off rope 50'+ off the deck, rapping off of some random stripper's thong that got caught in a shrub, or letting your intrusive thoughts win while belaying are all dirt common in the community. Its one thing to get caught out while engaging in dangerous hobbies, it's something else entirely to die doing something that's obviously stupid. I absolutely cannot even when someone goes for a 10th of a mile slide off of one of the flatirons in Tevas and the locals have the gall to call it a tragedy.