The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern American Climbing Gym

Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by lazide on Sunday March 23, 2025 @05:18PM (#43455981)

There is at least one technique which is officially ‘bad’, but was first taught.

That said, I’ve been caught (and caught others) while half asleep on big walls with Grigris when no one could see each other.

The hardest part with a gri gri (imo) is early on when doing sport or gym belaying when there is a lot of switching between taking in and paying out slack.

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Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by jayGlow on Monday March 24, 2025 @12:07AM (#43457722)

they released a new device called a neox recently that allows slack to be given out easier. still autolocks if you pull to fast but it's great overall.

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Re:The Guy Who Invented the Belay Test–and the Modern Americ... by toomuchtodo on Sunday March 30, 2025 @11:42PM (#43530692)

Thanks for this comment, I bought the neox from REI to try it out.

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