Separating the power-bits* from the light-emitting bits (even just to have them on opposite sides of a PCB) lets each of these bits dissipate more heat.
The nature of their use (where we only generally pay close attention to huge outdoor screens occasionally) also has lets the big, bright outdoor displays get away with artifacts (like sometimes-noticeable scanlines, or terrible color gamut) that just won't fly on a TV that is meant to be watched day after day -- by the same small group of people -- for years.
(*No, OLEDs don't switch themselves on and off; they're still just diodes like other LEDs are. There's transistors integrated into the panel to do that part.)
One has transistors that can't really be seen with the human eye (TFTs), and the other has transistors in SMD packages that can not only be seen, but also kicked and replaced when needed.
And one has tiny [O]LEDs that are integrated tightly together into one unit (which must be replaced at one time in the event of a pixel failure). The other has relatively enormous PCB-mount LEDs (which can be serviced individually on a bench by a tech of sufficient skill), which in turn are mounted on modules that can be swapped by a field tech fairly rapidly.
They're very different in construction methods, just as car engines are different compared to big marine engines. They'd also appear rather similar in function if one were to draw a block diagram of each.
For a junior display, you can have some guys with hand tools swap out broken modules in a giant outdoor display, but doing the same kind of repair stuck pixels in a few thousand living-room screens is a no-go.
That changes the trade-offs in terms of performance versus expected lifetime.
The 2 screens on the top left in this image (https://mediaim.expedia.com/destination/1/7b3980b3f80540d120...) have no trouble displaying bright white or other colors in the midday sun. (note: that photo itself looks edited, over saturated, high contrast) but those displays look great in person.