To compare this with an area HN is more familiar with, the equivalent to a grad student would be a junior developer fresh out of college in their first 3-5 years. Of course they don't know everything yet and they need some education and mentoring. But that doesn't mean it isn't a real job they do.
The job grad students do is roughly the same they'd do later if they stay in research.
You're expected to perform atleast 40 hours of research, often if not 1.5x more. Experimental research involves setting up and conducting them, while theoretical research involves standardizing the set of rules that one should seek in an experiment: modeling. All works involve literature review, writing, designing plots, coming up with scientifically sound creative ideas. All that with tight deadlines too.
I don't see why this should be any less than a job.