Once you get a product, like Camembert, or a wine like Burgundy, with a big AOP apparatus around it, there is little room for experimentation. In Burgundy you can't plant anything except Chardonnay for white wine that's going to be labeled Burgundy. Someone has an idea that sauvignon blanc might do well in a famous vineyard? Too bad, instead of Grand Cru Burgundy you're going to have to sell it as generic "Vin de France", which is typically box wine.

If anyone hasn't tried AOP French butter, it is really wonderful. The cows are pastured or fed forage, no grain, so it has a lot of flavor. There's a reason the French enjoy tartines and "beurre jambon" (sandwiches with preserves and ham, respectively), with good bread and butter it's a revelation. Bordier is rightly famous but any, e.g., Beurre d'Isigny is going to be worlds above 99% of butters made in the US.