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Re:Essential Climbing Knots by ct0 on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @09:10AM (#32411314)
Ive also always been in the the camp that this "backup" knot isn't backing up anything. If you want to finish the knot, the correct way to do it would be a Yosemite finish.
Re:Essential Climbing Knots by hprotagonist on Wednesday August 10, 2022 @10:56AM (#32413062)
Yep, that works well.

The balancing act the gyms, in particular, are trying to play is that knots should be both secure and easily verifiable on sight by gym staff, more or less entirely for liability reasons. A yosemite finish, or a bowline, are both dead-ass safe and in some cases better than a traced eight, but they're harder to glance at and know they're safe. That's totally fine at the crag, but it's a liability issue at the gym.