I lead a government digital service and have migrated from GA out of respect for our constituents' privacy.

Umami is a great self-hosted alternative, which you can load under a subdomain to avoid it being blocked by adblockers. Most of the SaaS products end up on uBlock or other adblocker lists, even when they respect privacy, so this has been my go to option.

UserTrack is another great option we use and it continues to add great features. It's more than worth the commercial license fee. I had a conversation with Cristian by email this weekend, for example, about adding a feature. By this morning he had put together an example in their docs on how to add the feature to your site.

The general consensus is "host your own", that way you're not giving more control over the web to Google by providing them the inner workings of your site via your analytics data.

There are several alternatives, you'll tend to find a lot of them advertised in the comments section here for any anti-Google Analytics post.

I’ve heard good things about both plausible [0] and panelbear[1] as alternatives to Google Analytics. Can’t say I have tested them personally yet unfortunately.

0. https://plausible.io 2. https://panelbear.com