It's easy to do little when everyone expects everything to take forever because of how heavy the processes are in the organization.
There are also more experienced people who are just very good at certain types of tasks with the result that they can bang something out in a half day and everyone else assumes they must have spent a week on it. They're still generally available the rest of the time but they can produce what's considered high quality work in very little time. Of course, one needs to have that skillset and it helps to be mostly autonomous.
Maybe I'm too low level, though. That's a real possibility. I 100% admit that.
I'd argue it's even more sinister than that; too much process can very quickly cause engineers to burn out, and since they aren't reprimanded in any serious way for not doing much work, they can sit and feel depressed without anyone even addressing it.
You kinda need to weasel in there first. When I worked at Intel (& to a lesser extent, Microsoft and IBM) there were literally hundreds of little 5-10 person b.s. boondoggles that did nothing of value but had management that could spin like Rumpelstiltskin, just took the company for a ride. Get several levels of that management going and no one has to really produce anything, they just need a manager to create paper-thin goals and hit those. Why? Because managers want to retire on the job and with enough nepotism it is entirely possible to scratch each other's backs. Problem is, they are very defensive about bringing in anyone that could upset the applecart. If you find one and burrow in, enjoy it!
There's two issues here:
1) The op asked for a technical role, so comparing an admin role to a technical one isn't helpful.
2) You're presuming Google is not a dysfunctional company.
I think point (2) is actually the more important one; reading through your comment, the type of "big, rich, process-driven" company is you describe is exactly what I thought of when the gp said "dysfunctional".
The only extra qualifier I would add to the gp is to "look for uncool dysfunctional companies". There are companies (like Google) that have what I would describe as a "cult factor", where they're able to create enough mythos around the brand that "good", hard-working, attentive & talented people want to work there purely based on the "culture" associated with the brand (and also having that brand listed on one's resume). This creates a competitive environment where the scale & bureaucracy might not be sufficient to save you from scrutiny.
The ideal place is somewhere exactly as dysfunctional as Google, but without the same reputation attached to the brand.
It wasn't just me doing that either. Most ppl are too busy focusing on whatever life goals and illusions they've crafted for themselves to really scrutinize what others are doing and even if they realize what's happening, why would they care?
I guess in any large enough org you're likely to be able to find this in some areas.
They are making no real progress, but on the inside they’re all working hard at accomplishing nothing.
Each creates different kinds of misery, and could be exploitable by OP for his goals.
The over-process version is likely more durable (both the org not imploding soon, and the position lasting) and potentially less interpersonal misery.
This theme is common in the thread and is wildly wrong.
First I recommend reading Bullshit Jobs to get some perspective on how others have fulfilled your goals.
Big, rich, process-driven companies and institutions are the easiest to do the least work in for the longest time.
Process is the toxin low-effort thrives on.
An admin role at Google pays more and works much less than an engineering role at a dysfunctional company.
If you look at (rich) university departments the admins are impossible to fire and work very little despite being paid only about 30-40% less than a professor with multiple postdocs working five to ten times as hard.
Anything in government: remember, process is where you thrive, and big rich city and state governments have incredible amounts of process.