> a model that is meant to guide action (basically any useful model) needs to be tested in action
No, it doesn't. For example, the vast majority of work on modeling the stock market is done on machines completely sandboxed from any ability to make trades and are owned by companies who will never make a trade themselves but instead return an API response with a yes/no. Whether that is fed directly into some sort of automated action is largely irrelevant as the ability for an individual trade to cause a measurable impact on the market is negligible until it isn't. So, these systems are built separate from the system they model and learn entirely through observation.
tl;dr: weather forecasting models don't have an action to take and also can't influence their system. And yet they learn and grow more accurate.
I do agree that observation is a type of experience, but a model that is meant to guide action (basically any useful model) needs to be tested in action. I can't learn to juggle only by watching other people juggle. I can only develop a hypothesis about how one juggles, but to test (and refine) it is to try the hypothesis out.