I don't think CRA is particularly opinionated, at least for the common scenario of "I want to make a react website". It doesnt force you down many (if any) routes, or prevent you from using too many popular technologies.

Yes, 100%, if you have more exotic requirements from a bundler or build toolchain then you'll need to look elsewhere and probably have to start learning tools like Webpack in more detail. I try and avoid those requirements.