So much this. It's been a bit over five years since I had to run it, but this is what I remember.

If you run multiple webservers, upgrading is extra fun, because when you upgrade, it assumes it can update the mysql schema (which is pretty much totally insane; a www-user writable php script shouldn't be able to create/remove/alter tables). The best way I found was to make a copy of the database, install the new version of Wordpress pointing at the new DB, thoroughly test, and then deploy new version pointing to new DB; then kill the old DB.

And woe is you if your webservers are geographically distant, because there's no way to send reads to a nearby DB mirror; and there's no way to run in read-only, because pingbacks still write to the DB even when they're disabled.

One of the best weeks of my last job was when I was able to finally convince my boss to replace Wordpress for our static company blog with a series of Makefiles and simple PHP to smoosh in all the translations.