I use GrapheneOS. It's rough, but as I said somewhere else, for the first time my phone isn't my enemy.

I would have bought a Linux phone, but seeing that a few months ago they had trouble making calls on a Librem 5, I chose not to take the risk.

Thanks, I will look into GrapheneOS.

I wish there was a phone ecosystem I could invest in that ran Clojure near the metal. Some kind of Lisp machine would be awesome and make it more palatable to endure missing libraries and apps.

In case you don't know, GrapheneOS is based on the open sources parts of Android (AOSP) so the apps are developed on Android's JVM (Dalvik?). Maybe it's possible to code with Clojure.

Actually it looks like it's possible : https://github.com/clojure-android

Myself I'm learning Flutter to be able to develop my own apps when I can't find what I need on FDroid.

Have a look at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Librem_5 and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PinePhone.