Commands that have to prefixed with AT are still in use. Most of the actual commands after the "AT" part are not recognizable to someone who knows dial-up modems; they have nothing to do with the Hayes set other than the AT prefix/misfeature.
Yeah, that's what always confused me about it when I worked on GSM phones back in the mid-2000s - if you're going to overload an old protocol so heavily, it's time for a new one.
In fact, one of the earliest iPhone jailbreak exploits relied on a vulnerability in the AT command interpreter inside the baseband.