Jira doesn't have to be evil. It is intrinsically awful due to that tendency enterprise database products have of growing the flexibility to reimplement various wheels inside of them, poorly. But using it for evil depends on managerial intent.

At my gig, everyone grumbles about Jira, because it sucks; see above. But, we have workflows built primarily around it with various integrations, and it works for coordinating ~200 folks in a starting-to-get-there "Agile" model.

It is actually the worst for the managers - they spend a surprising amount of time noodling around in Jira to feed the workflows. For individual contributors, it works and isn't too much overhead.

From an administration standpoint, it is OK (we run the on-prem version). More stable than some enterprise monstrosities, but the with occasional problem. The plugin-store-thing is annoying - somehow it manages to entice nearly every new business-side user into asking for some random thing, they usually get what they want, and then they sit unused aside from occasionally breaking things.