I tend toward color: #330; background: #fffff0;

Just off-black on a slightly creamy white.

May even stick with #000 for text.

Giving users ability to select a white, off-white, inverse, or solarised scheme is also useful.

See also https://contrastrebellion.com

That page is funny, I can only read the big text, the rest is too small and zooming is disabled. Message not really understood.

Most useful for the message, though I find it generally readable.

My variant:

https://codepen.io/dredmorbius/pen/KpMqqB

Still too small text to read on my screen and can't zoom

Is it not computing to 16px for your screen? I feel like you must have problems on 99% of websites if 16px font does not render large enough for you to read. Heck, HackerNews renders at 10.6/12px for me.

Ah, the page has a setting for displaysize. It was set to 0.5x when I ooened the link. Most pages work just fine if someone does not fiddle with stuff ;)