Computing page checksums burns quite a bit of memory bandwidth, and memory bandwidth is a major resource bottleneck in modern databases. In the DIRECT_IO case, the checksum memory bandwidth should be the same as your storage bandwidth; pessimistic checksumming without DIRECT_IO can burn memory bandwidth that significantly exceeds the storage bandwidth.
Particularly in cases where you have modern, high-performance storage devices, like PCIe connected flash arrays, you can't afford to burn memory bandwidth on checksumming beyond the minimum technically required.
The above is obviously inefficient which slows down writes, but checksums are not affected by this since those are only calculated on flush. The costs of not using O_DIRECT are 1) extra work on flushing to disk, 2) IO spikes due to the unpredictable nature of when and in what order the OS decides to flush to disk, and 3) wasted RAM. The main benefit is that being able to use the file cache on read loads (by tuning PostgreSQL with small buffers) is that PostgreSQL is nicer to run on shared machines, for example my laptop, since the OS can steal back the read cache when PostgreSQL stops using it.
I am pretty sure the real reasons for checksums being off by default are two:
1) That you need to WAL log hint bit changes if for checksums to work. Hint bits are part of PostgreSQL's MVCC implementation and that you do not need to WAL log them is a clever optimization. This extra WAL traffic can at least in theory hurt some workloads.
2) Probably most importantly: nobody has provided the benchmarks necessary to show that the cost is not too high.