K9Mail with Fastmail, AddressToGPS + OSMAnd, I back up my own photos with a home server and some rsync (Syncopoli). There is PhotoBackup which is kind of neat though.

We use Google Calendar for stuff at work, Google still has an old psuedo-deprecated-not-talked-about CalDav endpoint I hit with DavDroid that gives me all of that. These problems were solved with protocols long before gardens. I use offlineCalendar(Yes you need an app for that in Android) to create a calendar for myself locally, though I have a radiCAL server for things I need sync'd. Could have used Fastmail I guess.

Funny, I use exactly the same apps on my Cyanogenmod phone - K9 + Fastmail, OSMAnd. There arnt that many good alternatives to Google, apparently.

The only thing I'm still missing is public transit navigation.

I do have the Play Store installed though - through OpenGApps pico - I only have the Play Store, none of the other Google stuff - with a dummy gmail account.

My city has a transit app they maintain, but I'm afraid that'll stop if Google gets too ubiquitous in this area. It's really too bad that information that should be released as clean openData sets is so difficult to acquire and parse easily. Really should be some regulation around what, how and how often public information should be published and maintained.

BlueMail is fine for mail, Scout is good for driving directions (and uses OSM data).

I don't know gphotos and I don't really watch or show my photos on my phone.

There are alternative services for pretty much everything Google offers.