I suspect Linus's "taste", given Linux's problem domain, tuned to some combination of performant + testable + reviewable + portable. In the example given, Linus's rewrite meets these requirements; hence his assertion that it is in better taste.
EDIT: Okay, I'm being excessively snarky there; my apologies.
I will say instead that is that "good taste" depends on the context. What's "good taste" for kernel development isn't necessarily the same as "good taste" for enterprise development or the same as "good taste" for app development.
In short: most enterprise code should be elegant and simple, even if verbose (many conditionals, as little nesting as possible, etc) so that a 12 years old can understand it, because in real life you'll get much turnover and lack of means/skill/motivation. Hence, costly maintenance, etc.
Writing an open-source kernel consistently for 20+ years is an entirely different problem, and the fact that you use code in both these examples is a distant commonality of the problem sets; it is my experience thus contention that the human factor and real world conditions are paramount to ascribing qualitative assertions such as 'good' or 'tasty'. That is, until machines program themselves or others without human oversight. ;)