Yeah, I started trying to cut it open, but it soon became clear I would never be able to put it back together and have it 100% watertight. Which is kind of a hard requirement in this case.

If the channel for the rubber gasket is still there, you could. The old way was a rubber gasket (think "gigantic O-ring") and screws. The new model's plastic welding obviated the need for the gasket, but I bet the provision is still there if the screw bosses are still there.

Also, if you're tackling this repair, it's wise to make sure you can get the old bearings off the "spider" and that the spider isn't cracked from vibration. On our washer, I couldn't get the large bearing off the spider without trashing the spider and back half of the tub, and that made the repair overall uneconomical.

If you can get yours off, then order the parts. This also suggests replacing the bearings when they first start to make noise (a bit of a growl) or when the inner tub has some axial play relative to the outer tub (not to the door seal or frame of the washer, as that's from the suspension system). It would suck to order $50-75 worth of parts and not be able to do the repair anyway. You "have" to replace the seal and large bearing. I don't think it makes any sense not to replace the small bearing as well while you're in there. I also buy the tub seal gasket, though I've never felt the old one wouldn't have been fine to re-use (if present).

Silicone sealant, the "universal gasket", should also work to seal the joint, as the tub is not under high pressure.

3m 5200 Marine Sealant is my go-to for permanent sealing solutions (they do a slightly less-permanent version - 4200 - that might be more appropriate)