I'd recommend @SerpaDesign on YouTube as a great source of info on terrariums - he's got quite a few videos that cover this, but here's one to start: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Lg4tzkHgVo&t=1s&ab_channel=....
The main thing to keep in mind is that terrariums are high-humidity environments, so plants like mosses, ferns, and orchids will do well. Plants that prefer a dryer climate like succulents and cacti will not do well.
Another consideration is lighting - some plants want more, some want less. This terrarium is capable of fairly high light output, but can also be set to any level you want. However, you'll want to select plants that want a similar amount of light so they can co-exist with the same light settings.
Anecdotally, I've successfully grown a range of plants in these including mosses, ferns, and orchids.
Sounds like a fun project, best of luck! Would love to see what you come up with. One word of warning with the misting: using them in an "upside down" configuration as I'm doing can be a bit finicky. I've encountered some that slowly drip due to the pressure of the water above them. Look for misting discs with small hole sizes (<=4uM) and expect that some percent of them won't work well. However, the ones that do drip at the start typically stop after a day or two of use and are fine from there on out.
I have not really considered decontamination and I don't think it's much of an issue for terrariums because the plants and soil in the enclosure already contain a lot of bacteria, etc. I could see it being much more important for your use case with mushrooms where a small number of mold spores can ruin an entire mushroom grow.
> To protect the ultrasonic mister from bad firmware frying it, you could probably replace R6 with a sufficiently sized capacitor to make an effective DC block
That is an excellent idea - I'll definitely keep that in mind for a future version.
> I've also had issues with a thermal sensor just reading board temp, best solution is to make the sensor a separate board. Short of that, one can mill slots around it and reduce copper pour to reduce thermal conductivety from the PCB.
I ended up just moving the sensor offboard and as far away from the heat source as I reasonably could. I did consider the milled slots + reduced pour option, but given the amount of heat generated by the LEDs, it seemed best to move the sensor further away.
- some parts are sold in multiples, so you'll have to buy several even if you only need one for the build
- I ordered the electronics from JLCPCB where the minimum order quantity is 5 (minimum assembled is 2). At a quantity of 5 assembled, the LED board is ~$12/board and the mainboard is ~$41/board. If you're comfortable with SMD soldering, you can order bare PCBs and parts and do it for much cheaper by assembling only one of each board. You can find some more details here: https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/electronics/#how-to-get-them. And a history of my JLCPCB orders including costs here: https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/electronics/#pcb-order-history
- custom electronics: $53
- 3D-printed parts (~600g of PETG): $12
- other parts: $46
- acquiring/assembling electronics: this can vary a lot depending on whether you buy assembled or do it yourself
- 3D-printing: depending on your printer, maybe 2 solid days of printing
- waterproofing 3D-printed parts: takes ~15 minutes to do and 24hrs for the epoxy to cure
- final assembly: 30-60 minuteshttps://github.com/justbuchanan/oasis
See the website for a demo video: https://oasis-terrarium.comThis project is an enclosure for growing plants. Features include: - high-power LED lighting - a built-in water tank and mister - fans for airflow - temperature and humidity sensing - wi-fi connectivity and a web-based interface for control and monitoring (see https://oasis-terrarium.com/docs/usage_guide/#web-interface) The...
It takes radio waves 3-20 minutes (depending on orbit position) to travel from earth to mars (and vice versa), so direct control would be impossible.