dezork

I would call it self-occluding.

Acetone really don't work well for PLA. You need tetrahydrofuran to smooth PLA in the same way that acetone smooths ABS.

Pâte de verre is typically rougher than kilncasting from a larger billet, because you're fusing glass granules without fully melting them together. So you could get a smoother surface just by adjusting the peak kiln temperature.

But yea, certainly you could add a leather wrap underneath.

Hi! Did we meet during that Pilchuck session? I wonder if I remember you.

Either way, feel free to send me an email ping if you like, I'm always looking for folks to share knowledge with.

[email protected]

SLS parts aren't substantially weaker in the Z direction like your typical FDM parts are.

Cool! I love it.

There's a more detailed tutorial on how to use physics to do 3D part packing here:

http://amosdudley.com/weblog/Stochastic-Part-Packing

Both. All in one print!

I've made the source files are available for people to experiment with: it's not a perfect process yet, and I think with some crowdsourced effort it could get a lot more refined. The application would be coloring any 3D print that has a diffuse color/UV map: figurines, product prototypes, that kinda thing.

The camera has a micro 4/3 mount at the moment. The tricky part is that the flange focal distance on the SLO is not to Micro 4/3 spec (or any standard spec), because of the fairly large depth needed for the printed shutter.

It would be very easy to make a lens mount for commercial glass if lens had a larger FFD than the SLO, which is ~41mm.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flange_focal_distance

The only equipment here that might be an issue for most people is the laser scanner. I'm not sure where I'd find one of those outside a university that's accurate enough. The Makerbot one is pretty shitty.

Everything else could be pretty easily sourced. Shapeways can 3d print with very good resolution. You can buy a vacuum forming machine from Ebay for 100 bucks for exactly this purpose, or make one yourself with a heat gun, wood, and a shop vac (there's tutorials on youtube).

Good point. I'll add some info about this.

COAD?

Smiling is incredibly important! Didn't put that part in on a lark- I really am noticeably happier for feeling like I can unselfconsciously smile.

I used Keystone PROFORM .030" Retainer Material. Keystone is a dental supplier, so I trust the plastic is biologically inert.

I've been using 30% Carbamide Peroxide whitening gel in the trays for about 30 minutes a day. So yes, they are whiter.

Definitely not, because of liability, and the fact that I have no interest in other people's teeth.

I'm happy to leave it as a piece on my portfolio :)

Food finds its way up between the aligner and the teeth, and it's very unpleasant. Not recommended.

Drinking is not a problem though.

Nope, no prior experience. It's quite easy, if you have an impression tray (I had to mock it up in 3d and print one). The instructions for alginate are right on the bag.

The rest was just reading freely available docs on how to make castings.