You pretty much nailed it right there.
Before I ever ask this question (I do a lot of tech interviews sadly) I always ask the candidate about object mutability vs immutability. Almost everyone knows the textbook answer, and only a few know the actual implications of it. This tests which they know :)
Default kwargs of a function are defined at function definition. However, they are only in scope, for the scope of said function. It is a weird but important subtle difference.
While that explains how it works, I actually completely agree with you. This is surprising behavior and, in a language that prides itself on not being surprising, seems, well, surprising.
I have to wonder if performance isn't the big reason for it. If your default is [], it isn't a big deal to re-evaluate, but if your default is get_default_cities_from_slow_web_service(), having that re-evaluated on every function call would be catastrophic. Given the choice between two negatives, the choice they made is probably reasonable.