In video games specifically, where I work, it is well-known that you would rather have a game that runs slower, but with a solid frame rate, than a game that has a highly-variable frame rate that is faster on average. (This is more of a continuum situation than a discrete action like a tap, but the basic principle holds).
P.S./edit: Double-tap only means zoom because that is what they happened to implement. It is a convention easily changed. Look at how heavily Apple just revamped their entire interface, for an audience that is arguably much less savvy than the Android audience.
Using double-tap in this way was a mistake; it is an easy mistake to fix if you have enough design vision to know where you are going.
Within a given game (site), I'd prefer to have consistent frame-rate (latency). But if GTA (Gmail.com) is consistently faster than Need For Speed (NYTimes.com), that would bother me less.
With interaction response, the faster the better.
Seriously, there are tons of studies on this. I am not making it up.
Overall I'm not sure how I feel about this topic myself but I do understand jblow's point and somewhat agree with his rant.
Because people would rather have slower and more predictable than faster and less predictable. Especially when it comes to user interface actions where things get pushed down into muscle memory.
I don't believe the problem you brought up is very important. Why do I care if there is a "constant, learnable latency", as long as each latency is reasonable? In the end I assume that the slowest response is the standard and any actions that happen faster are a pleasant surprise.
But more importantly this change doesn't preclude them from removing double-tap altogether in the future. I agree it is a half-solution now, but it's better than nothing if you are willing to grant that differing latency across pages is acceptable.
I do like the insight about stacking double-tap on top of single-tap, I'm just not sure how to apply it in the current world where single-tap means click/navigate and double-tap means zoom.