I think "turning on the MMU" is something a bit different than "turning on virtual memory." The former just means that all addresses are translated from virtual->physical, while the latter implies more abstraction: virtual memory can be overcommitted, pages might not be resident.
This is just a guess, but I'd wager that UEFI has the MMU enabled, but with an identity mapping that maps all virtual addresses to the same physical address.
"64-bit UEFI understands long mode, which allows applications in the pre-boot execution environment to have direct access to all of the memory using 64-bit addressing."
Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Extensible_Firmware_Int...
I remember from the OSDev wiki that the only way to get a processor in 64 bit mode was by first turning on virtual memory. I remember because I was disappointed by that, it seems unnecessary.
Doesn't UEFI play by these rules, or am I misunderstanding?