Any pointers for good existing templates? I already know HTML and CSS, and basic Photoshop/Gimp (even created title graphics with glow and shadows and stuff back in the day). But the only "template" I have available is YUI reset-fonts-grids.css, which looks worse than nothing at first, as it removes all styles.
Don't confuse a framework with a template. I would not consider YUI a template, and even basic CSS layouts (the common 2-column, 3-column, etc.) are not complete templates. Using a true template the design decisions (graphics, colors, etc) are made for you.
I'd recommend determining what content you want on the site, find similar sites, and then that will provide a basis for design. Look at oswd.org and smashingmagazine.com as mentioned above. Do a google search for css templates, etc. Even consider templatemonster.com.
I'll second what others are saying: you should learn HTML, CSS (properties, selectors, box model, etc.), and become competent with Photoshop or The GIMP.
These skills let me modify (with mixed results) existing templates. They also save me money when working with a designer. I'm able to provide direction by modifying his mockups saving time (= $$$) and confusion in the process.