> if a device on the WAN side sends to your router a packet with destination address on the LAN side
This can happen only if the device is directly attached to the NAT server. Basically, only your ISP can do that.
Most NAT servers by default also prohibit this kind of routing (because why even allow it?!?), but even the most misconfigured bad NAT server is still vulnerable only if you control the ISP, in practice.
Yes, but that's because it's co-located with a stateful firewall, sharing the same connection tracking state. Without that firewall, if a device on the WAN side sends to your router a packet with destination address on the LAN side, your router will route that packet to the LAN, even though it's not a reply to anything sent from the LAN to the WAN. That is: it's a misconception that port mapping NAT blocks incoming connections; port mapping NAT only affects outgoing connections and replies to them.