I think you summed it up well. People hate object oriented code because it has an extra startup burden. It's hard to just dive in and start fiddling with code because there are many project-specific abstractions you need to understand before-hand. The new guy on the project has to spend extra time to "grok" the idioms of the project. I personally don't see this as a bad thing.

The fact is, abstraction is key to programming. People who have a hard time managing extra abstractions in their head probably aren't nearly as good of a programmer as they think.

On the other hand, people complaining about this don't realize it is very much the same in any other language.

Go ahead and just fiddle around in that million loc c codebase. Or that million loc java codebase. (and ignore for a second that that c codebase is a large compiler and that java codebase is an elaborate hello world). Or a hypothetical million line haskell codebase.

In C you have to understand modules, functions working on structures and functions controlling the architecture. In Java you have to understand class hierachies and classes or functions managing the control flow. In haskell, you have to understand abstract data types, type classes and monads and functions managing control flow.